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Hi, Hola,

I am here and home or, at least, in one of my homes. I arrived to Tepoztlan late Monday night without difficulty, except for the 13 and a half hour trip with 8 connections from Marfa, Texas to Tepoztlan, Morelos: To wit, 1 hour to get to Presidio, Texas, leaving my Marfa house at 10:00 am, 4 hours to Chihuahua City, 3 hours to Mexico City, 2 hours to Cuernavaca, 1 hour to Tepoztlan, arriving at 23:30. Nothing was lost, stolen, or surprising the whole trip; but it was exhausting. I was extremely relieved to arrive at my temporary domicile, have the gate opened when I rang the bell, and see my friend Andy on the other side. She immediately made me a bowl of Miso soup; we talked for a good while.

Just to keep my relief in perspective, I had thought through my options upon arrival in Tepoz if Andy hadn’t opened the gate to the posada, Casa de Arrayan. Either I could go to the houses of a couple other acquaintances and ring their gate bells, or I could get the taxi driver to stop by the several small hotels, looking for a lighted desk, or I could sleep with my suitcase in some quiet alley way? None of these were necessary. “Little rabbit come inside, safely to abide.”

When I awoke after a good night’s sleep, complete with dreams about bizarre dogs with feathers for tails, I was ready to explore the city and look for friends. All concepts of time fell away, and I could just be here fully for the next few weeks. As I looked out for the first time, I could see from the veranda of my domicile that the rain has filled the mountains and valley with green vigor. The sun was bright, reportedly rare this rainy season. This is the season when all the rain that didn’t arrive for nine months shows up at once, like relatives at a long postponed wedding. The ridge of green around the city was in sharp contrast to the arid slopes of the Marfa that I left on Monday morning. Far West Texas has become the place “it never rains.” (Although someone informed me on Tuesday afternoon that it rained 3/10 of an inch there, hurrah!)

When I headed into town, I knew that I was “home where I am”. There were a couple of friends in the coffee shop, we hugged and hemmed and hawed a bit. Then I looked for my friend Augusta who had promised to meet me there. We spent an hour catching up. Afterwards I had to shop for food or starve so I headed for the small grocery store for packaged items: wine, canned tuna, sugar, milk, and shampoo. Next, I crossed over to the market for Manchego cheese. By then I was loaded down, but I stopped at the other coffee shop for the organic beans that the owners grow, harvest, roast, and sell. It is an excellent bean.

And so forth, dragging my goods back to Casa Arrayan, eating a great avocado and cheese on a huarache…a shoe sole shaped tortilla. Muy rico. The kitchen at Arrayan leaves much to be desired…mostly Clorox and decent pots and pans. I’ll put up with it.

I struggled with the internet signal in my (lovely) room for over an hour, finally going back down to the kitchen. (The wireless signal must not like ten inch adobe walls.) I am working on the promotion of my memoir Let Go of the Rope. I keep thinking that I have finished until another “brilliant” insight strikes me, and I have to revise it again. I may never finish. If I keep revising it, I won’t have to decide what to do with IT. It is now bigger than both of me.

About being “home,” the reason why I chose Tepoztlan as my second home originally, two years ago was the Shambhalacalli Meditation Center. Tonight I took a combi van over to the center to sit in meditation for a while and participate in a discussion about a book written by Sakyong Mipham Rinpoche who is the head of the Shambhala lineage. I saw several friends there who invited me to a Sacred Fire full moon celebration somewhere south of town. I declined as the celebrations tend to go on for hours, and I would have to figure out how to get a taxi back to town at some ungodly hour. I came “home, where I am.”

I checked the full moon when I arrived home; it was hidden behind a bank of black clouds slightly above the horizon. Quite beautiful with the silver contours of white clouds haloing the black clouds that were shaped much like North and South America. I was alone in the world looking at the World. I decided to go back up top on the terrazzo an hour later to see what she was showing us. “Is she really full?” (Later) Seguro que si! I climbed back up to the terrazzo and the moon was amazing. The valley’s contours were accentuated by the glow of the sky over the peaks. Down below there were the howls of moon-worshipping dogs and the sound of fireworks as if Tepoztlan were celebrating the Fourth of July!

(Next day) I walked the Tepoz pyramid path today with Augusta, ending up far above the city, looking down over the pyramid. Of course, it began to rain, and I ended up seriously drenched, me and a couple dozen other hikers on the trail. Still it was warm so the wet was OK. Now I settle down to work, trying to figure out how to be at home wherever I am.

May you be at home wherever you are.

How to Wake Up!

News from Marfa, Texas
( I am writing this first in Spanish below since I seldom have the chance to speak it here in Texas. )
Hello Everyone,
I hope that this finds you well. At this moment, I am seated at a Starbucks in Bastrop, Texas. I just returned from my sister’s farm. I spent a week there helping with the planting and other gardening projects. Yesterday I harvested about 60 pounds of onions pulling them from their dirty little nests. I hope that my sister resolves soon the problem of having 60 pounds of onions in the hallway of the house. Should it be onion soup for 200 friends? Or onion rings to feed the 1000 residents in the neighboring town? Or Zen koans for 300 Buddhist nuns? (“The significance of life can be found through a process resembling the peeling of an onion.”)
(Several days later)
Having spent two weeks in central Texas, I was able to visit my sons, several close friends, and my family, including a niece that I haven’t seen for a while. The trip was fun and important to me since I live a good way (425 miles) from some of my favorite people, and they seldom make it out here to visit me. Sometimes the mountain has to go to Mohammed.
Now I am in my Marfa house, seated on the front porch watching the subtle and changing colors of the sunset. When people ask me why I live out here, I say, “the sky.” When I feel lonely, I can look at the skies and all that surrounds me, and I am fine. Oh, and I am drinking a bit of tequila now to improve my Spanish below.
Other news, before I depart from here again, I have to finish with the preparations to sell a house that I own in a neighboring town. Basically, I need to paint it a bit, clean up, work on the neglected gardens, etc. I hope to sell it quickly as it is a good house. God willing. Then I plan to find a house in central Texas to buy so that my sons can live in it. They are paying a lot of rent. It’s better to rent from me. I’m cheap.
I can’t believe that it has been two months since I left Tepoz. It always seems a dream to me, my Tepoz life. Indeed, with my Buddhist training, it is a dream; but that’s another topic. Fortunately, I live in a good place in the States. My town is tranquil and pretty, but I get pretty lonely here. I just don’t have much in common with the residents. I am always so glad to be back in Tepoz.
I am still working on my book. I finished the first draft, now begins the tough part, the revision. I ask myself why I ever began to write it and whether or not it makes sense to continue. I have already benefitted so much from the initial writing of it, the examination of my life and the cords of love, fear, timidity, low self-esteem, etc. My experiences in Tepoztlan figure prominently in the tale. Also, the mere fact of returning to West Texas from such a different place has been intriguing to say the least. It has been a very useful study, but the fact of finishing it is enormous, and the possibility of publishing it is small, miniscule. We shall see.
I continue with my yoga and meditation practices, that way I stay sane, more or less. I plan to travel to Colorado briefly for a Buddhist training soon. My monkey mind has gone crazy. I need a retreat, to sit on a cushion for days, remembering my priorities. Tomorrow I will try to arrange it.
I would love to hear from you, know of the changes and constants in your lives. Please write to me if you have a moment.
I send you affection and peace, Marie

Noticias de Marfa, Texas
Hola todos,
Espero que estén perfectamente bien. He decidido escribir en español puesto que casi nunca lo hablo aquí. Debo practicar. Desafortunadamente mi español no es perfecto, tendrán que soportarlo.
En este momento estoy sentada en un Starbucks en Bastrop, Texas. Acabo de regresar de la granja de mi hermana. Pasé una semana allí ayudando con la cosecha y unos proyectos agrarios. Ayer saqué a menos 30 kilos de cebollas ya maduras de sus nidos de tierra. Espero que mi hermana resuelva pronto el problema de 30 kilos de cebollas que se encuentra en el pasillo de la casa. O sopa de cebolla para 200 amigos? Cebollas empanadas y fritos para el pueblo cercano de 1000 habitantes? Koanes de Zen para 200 monjas budista? (“El significado de la vida se encuentra por un proceso parecido al pelar y pelar una cebolla.)
(Unos días después)
Acabo de pasar dos semanas en Tejas central. Pude visitar con mis hijos, mis amigos y amigas, la familia de mis hermanas, incluyendo una sobrina que no he visto en muchos meses. El viaje fue rico e importante para mi puesto que vivo bastante lejos de esos seres queridos y ellos me visitan poco en mi terreno retirado. La montana tiene que venir a Mohammed.
Ahora estoy en mi casa en Marfa sentado en el pórtico observando los colores sútiles y tiernos del cielo y la puesta del sol. Cuando alguien me pregunta porqué vivo aquí, digo, “el cielo.” Cuando me siento solo, contemplo lo que me arrodea y estoy bien. Oh, y estoy tomando un poquito de tequila para poder escribir en Español.
Otras noticias, antes de salir otra vez, tendré que terminar con las preparaciones para vender una casa que rento en el próximo pueblo. Básicamente…pintar un poco, limpiar, ordenar los jardines, etc. Espero venderla con facilidad puesto que es buena casa. Ojalá. Entonces pienso comprar otra casa en Tejas central para el uso de mis hijos. Los dos están pagando mucho para rentar. Sería mejor rentar de mi. Yo cuesto poco.
No puede creer que hace dos meses desde que regresé de Tepoz. Siempre parece un sueno, mas o menos, mi vida en Tepoz. Pues, desde el punto de vista budista asi es, pero este es otro tema. Afortunadamente vivo en buen lugar en los EEUU. Mi pueblo es tranquilo y bonito, pero me pongo bastante sola allí por falta de personas de ideas y actitudes parecidas. Siempre me alegra regresar para ver y visitar de nuevo con mis seres tepoztlocos!
Sigo escribiendo mi libro. Terminé con el primer borrador, ahora la parte difícil empieza. Me pregunto porque lo habré empezado o si debo seguir con el proyecto puesto que he aprovechado tanto del acto sencillo de escribir, de examinar mi vida y las cuerdas de amor, miedo, temeridad, auto-estimo, etc. Mis experiencias en Tepoz se manifiestan bastante en la historia. También, la realidad de regresar a mi propio hogar examinando las diferencias. Sí, ha sido un estudio útil. Pero el trabajo que me obliga para refinar más el libro es enorme. Y la posibilidad de publicarlo es pequeña. Pues, vamos a ver.
Sigo con las practicas de yoga y de meditación, así me mantengo sano…más o menos. Pienso viajar a Colorado brevemente para un entrenamiento del Budismo. Mi mente de mono se ha puesto tan loca; de veras necesito asistir a un retiro, sentarme callada unos días en un cojín, recordar mis prioridades, el porqué de la vida. Mañana trato de arreglarlo.
Quisiera saber de ustedes, no puede imaginar los cambios que habrán visto en sus vidas. Si tienen un momento, escríbanme por favor.
Les mando cariño y paz, Marie

Rolling Stone Grows Moss

Chapter 33 GUADALAJARA GUADALAJARA

I returned to Mexico after several months during which I had worked a lot on my houses, set up a new rental service, and done lot of visiting all over Texas. I wanted to return to Mexico to study again with the Dzogchen teacher, with another Shambhala teacher, and, of course, to visit with Franco. Coincidentally, the Dzogchen teache was giving a class in Guadalajara, Franco’s hometown so a visit there seemed ideal. I spent several weeks prior to my departure organizing the vacation rental at my house and orienting a friend to take care of the management in my absence.

DISASTER IN THE DESERT-TROPOLIS

It began well enough. A friend drove me the sixty miles to the Mexican border which I walked across with my little, wheeled suitcase, taking a taxi to the bus station, waiting an hour, and boarding the bus for Chihuahua City from which I would fly to Guadalajara. Simple, right? It went well until I arrived in Chihuahua, exiting the bus rather slowly, checking around for forgotten items. By the time I got off and took a moment to see how far away the restrooms were, my suitcase was gone! The porter had given it to the wrong person. Someone had stolen my luggage. Disaster in the Mexican desert-tropolis.

I clearly remember the instant in which I realized that my suitcase was gone. It was a skin-crawling, breath-sucking moment. It was like a little death in that I knew that it was gone and that I would not get it back. Of course, I spent half an hour looking for it with the negligent porter, then talking to the busline, then filling out the useless form. Reportedly the chubby woman traveling with an enormous stuffed dog (seriously) had been seen boarding a taxi with a similar bag, along with the dog. I had put my hopes of recovering the bag on life support briefly as I spoke with the taxi drivers about where the chubby dog-lady might have gone, but I knew it was of little use. I had to catch a plane so I left with the clothes on my back, my purse and credit cards and my trusty laptop.

Is there a cosmic irony here? I was on my way to a training about death, studying the Tibetan Book of the Dead, and a bit of me had died with my luggage. There were three factors. There was the purely practical need for clothes and travel items; there was the crisis of having placed a copy of my passport, credit cards and license in the bag and the concern that these might be used to steal my identity; and, finally, and most poignantly, I had lost many items of personal importance to me. The bag had contained an assortment of carefully chosen clothing and comfort items, destined to keep me comfortable and attractive for two months. I had packed several favorite garments and pieces of jewelry which I would never see again, as well as several necessities such as a phone and a camera charger, not to mention a few photos of family. It was a total violation of my person to lose these items. However, in this regard, it was also an enormous lesson. Whatever was in the bag was dispensable. In the ultimate sense, it was excess baggage. I had to walk away, leaving a bit of me in that bus station. There would be no cute outfits, no favorite CD’s of my son’s music, no books, earplugs, makeup, extra shoes, vitamins, journals; they were simply gone. Let go of it?

In some ways to loss foreshadowed my release from my Mexico fixation. Perhaps the bloom was off the rose. Or maybe it was just a lesson in traveling light. Let it go, including the pain of losing a part of me. I was after all, heading for a training on letting it ALL go. On the positive side, I had not packed my laptop in my luggage. I had thought about it since I would be with my luggage on the bus. If the loss of the bag symbolized a loss of Self; the keeping of the laptop foreshadowed a future for my thoughts and writing. That deserved to survive.

FRANCO

I finally arrived at the Guadalajara airport; I was totally exhausted after the difficulty with the loss of my luggage in Chihuahua. I anticipated that Franco would be there waiting for me. He wasn’t. Fortunately I had his cell number; unfortunately I had no cell phone and no way to contact him. I spent several anxious moments pondering my next step. Should I ask around about a cheap hotel near the airport? Grab a taxi and get the driver to help? Find someone with a cell phone and ask for help? I tried the latter first; then I tried again, no answer. Finally I ask around and found out that there are two terminals at the airport. I figured that he was at the other one, BUT I couldn’t walk over to the second terminal without leaving the first one and, possibly, missing Franco.

By this time, all I wanted to do was return home and climb into my own bed and pull up the covers. Of course, I had to remember that I had rented my house out for six weeks so I would be sleeping with several other groups of people! It was a real crisis of personal faith. I ask myself, “Are you completely and totally out of your mind? Arriving at night to a city of six million people without a cell phone or even a change of clothes?

Finally, I spotted a man who looked official, and he very kindly tried the phone number again. Franco picked up; he was at the other terminal. The kind man walked me over there, and I found my man, wearing a bright turquoise shirt just like the first time I saw him over a year ago.

It felt so great to hug him again. Indeed, we have this great “chemistry,” I always feel like he is a part of my body and soul. We rushed home through the huge city’s streets. (Franco is a wild driver; he scares the pee out of me.) After making a snack of leftovers and tequila, we began what we do best: playing like adult children. We kissed and danced and hugged and kissed and danced and hugged and proceeded to consume each other with great gusto. With Franco, it’s always my honeymoon.

We finally slept about 3:00. This was not good because I woke up at my usual 6:15, with the sounds from the street. It was another sleep-deprived night for me with my buddy who slept until 9:30. I hate seeing people sleep like little kittens when I wake up bleary-eyed like a dog.

But I rallied; eventually we proceeded with the day. He had to go downtown on business, briefly, after which we went shopping for my three pairs of sox, three pairs of panties, two t-shirts, a pair of shoes, and a back pack to carry my new wardrobe. I still need to buy another pair of pants to make it through the weekend training. My total expenditure so far is about 300 pesos, or $28. Not bad.
We ran a couple more errands, Franco purchased about twelve pounds of the most gorgeous avocados, mangos, and papayas. The avocados and papayas we less than one dollar per kilo (2.2 pounds); the mangoes were almost free. I remembered why I love walking around in Mexican cities so much; Guadalajara is a top-notch city.

Then we sped back through the enormous city (six million, give or take), heading for a Temazcal/ sweat lodge ceremony to which we had been invited. Leaving the city proper, we drove another twenty minutes, entering a wonderful residential area with large, expensive, tasteful homes. Finally we arrived at a driveway leading up to a house under construction. The Temazcal bonfire was just visible from the road. We were running late so we stripped off most of our clothes and hurried, barefoot, up the paved walkway behind the house and to a general clearing. We finally reached the domed, Temazcal tent that was just being sealed up for the ceremony.

The Temazcal structure was of the Lakota Indian style made with a series of long, bent poles forming a dome of less than four feet in height. It was covered with heavy tarps, and several large hot stones had already been placed inside to heat the structure; the steam was to be provided by tossing water on the hot stones. We climbed in, clockwise, saying hello to the only other person in there. It was to be a small gathering. The sweat was organized by two brothers from the Guadalajara area who have studied extensively with the Lakota Indians from the US, primarily with an inspired teacher, Tigre Perez, who visited Mexico at some point with his tribe and decided that it was a great place to hangout.

We covered the “whole nine yards,” the compelling chants in Lakota or Spanish, the long pronouncements of gratitude to our ancestors, the Mother, the Father, and so forth. It was pretty hot inside and steamy. I had been worried about my physical shape for the strenuous experience since I had had so little sleep. It would be very inappropriate to break the ceremony by leaving the Temazcal before it was finished, but I made it through.

We sat around the bonfire once we had exited the sweat, talking and just feeling the beauty of the night, waiting for the full moon to crest over the clouded hill tops of that area. There were several dogs who decided that they loved me. I was cold after the sweat so Franco hugged me to his side and the dogs covered my back side, literally. The night was all gorgeous, especially the fire and the moonlight which shot up into the low clouds as she arose from behind the low mountains. She eventually showed her big, round face. I howled; then the dogs howled.

Eventually we had to leave, but before that Franco had decided that we should declare our love before the fire. This seemed a bit weird in view of the fact that there were several people there who might not be so interested in Franco’s love for me. It also seemed a bit odd as my understanding of American Indian tradition is that they commit for life. So I asked if he was offering to walk on coals for me. I thought that it was amusing. I did not want to get into the attitude of my fleeting and occasional boyfriend around those who probably thought that monogamy and marriage were something to be treasured. Indeed, as part of the ceremony, the leader had asked that we each have a loving partner…singular.

We drove back to the house, singing the great, heart-pumping Indian chants, all through the night of the really lovely city. Arriving, we had more of the same conversations about all sorts of mystical theories about life, love, sex, and death. These types of dialogs are a part of our friendship; that’s why I will continue to visit with him as long as I can. We obviously squeeze enough emotional intensity into three days to dilute for several months. Then, it’s only a matter of finding him again to recharge.

The last day that I spent in Guadalajara with Franco was rich with experience. He woke up very late, and we slowly made our way through breakfast and preparations for errands: he, to deliver an invoice, I, to buy another pair of pants. We shopped in town, then went to a disappointing park near there with empty aviaries and butterfly domes, plus very brown water in a lake called Blue Water, Agua Azul. Franco suggested another, better park, so we headed that way. But first I spotted a café, desperately wanting a good cup of coffee. We ordered, then Franco asked the barrista if we could move a small table and chair outside (so that we could be like Europeans and smoke and hear the traffic). It was Euro-Mexico. We were right in the parking space.

Then we moved on to the next park which was exceptional with gorgeous old trees, many hike and bike trails, wonderful large scale sculpture from all over the world, and a nice, small Japanese garden with coy and blossom-stroked azaleas. There was also gazebo from which music was emanating and which turned out to be the site for a dancing lesson for seven couples, mostly middle-aged. The music was Danzon which is a highly stylized form of dance resembling Tango but a traditional, middle-class Mexican favorite. Franco and I danced outside a bit. They tried to get us to join in, but we wanted to keep on exploring the park.

I noticed a bright orange ridge of light behind a tree-flecked hilltop; it was sunset so we scrambled up the hill to see the warm glow that was reiterated by the orange-yellow park lights that were just coming on at dusk. It was life imitating art. We watched; Franco told me for the thirtieth to fortieth time how much he loved me and how wonderful I am. (Being around him was very good for my self-esteem.) We tumbled back down, exiting the park at dark thirty.

We were not down with our explorations. Franco insisted that we see the resplendent Zapopan Zocalo /plaza. There, we hopped out of his SUV after parking in a pissy-smelling, underground parking lot. (For lack of pubic toilets in the square, one must endure what others leave when they can no longer endure.)
The church on the square is really unusual with some of the highest relief that I have seen from 18th century designs; it was also very nicely lighted, giving it even more dimensionality. Once again we heard music and followed it to a kiosk, alongside of which about twenty-five people were dancing to rather sophisticated salsa music. Apparently Thursday night is dance class! Some of the dancers were excellent. Franco would have given his eye teeth to dance with one of the women who had “amazing hips” (his words). We sat for a while, watching; he was encouraged by one of the older men there to come on Thursday nights for the opportunity to meet up with Lolita.

We snacked as we sat in the park amidst the Mexican families, sweethearts walking hand-in-hand, and street vendors. Franco managed to consume several really juicy mangoes right from the peel down; I was too intimidated to have all that syrup dripping all over my face and hands so I had fabulous home-made guacamole with tostados. It was a good picnic.

Then “billares;” we returned briefly to the billiards hall where we had spent several hours a year earlier; my pool game had gotten even worse. Franco plays a game called Carambola and got into a game. I agreed to play at pool as long as it were not prolonged. It wasn’t. Then home again to finalize our fourth honeymoon.
My final night with my wild, clever, philosophical, and sexy buddy could have been sad because, as I said to Franco, lying by his side, “I am really going to miss you. I will suffer a lot, but it will be good suffering.”

We had a blast that night. The usual great touchy-kissy stuff, plus some good comments and questions: I asked at some point, “What day is it?” (It is pretty weird for me to forget the day.) Then, “You and I are bi-lingual: we both have tongues that speak this incredibly sexual language.” “You are my teacher and I am your teacher; it’s totally balanced.” “I want to feel your big belly on mine.” And from Franco with his odd English accent, “ Marie Blazek, Marie Blazek, I like to say your name.” Then about ten more times, “I love you, you are such a beautiful woman.” Then from me, “I love you too Franco, but I have to go to sleep now. I woke up three hours before you did this morning. Leave my butt alone.” It was a sweet night for parting sweethearts.

I still feel his skin and mouth on mine; his laugh and breath, an instant away. We danced naked, and laughed like maniacs. Our separation is sad; but the fact that I learned how to have a great time with an amazing man is a miracle. I think I will change Franco name to Zorba!

He is my friend; he has offered me a great sensual ride; many challenging viewpoints, and new ways to view romance and love. The fact that we are separate and that we will undoubtedly have other partners is the irony. Sometimes you just “eat dessert first.” I will enjoy suffering over Franco. He was such a gift. At some point during our “fourth honey moon,” Franco said, “If only I’d met you twenty years ago.” Ditto.

THE FOURTH DIMENSION

Here is a translation of Franco’s basic philosophy which is to live in what he describes as the 4th Dimension.
“Don’t live your life looking for problems where there aren’t any. It is our intrinsic nature to love and find love in others, to understand it, to assimilate it; it makes you live, to vibrate in the 4th Dimension. In it everything is learning, transforming you into a living being who, wherever you go, you install your presence. And everything around you is converted into evidence of that presence.
No se vive la vida buscando problemas en donde no los hay. Como nacimos intrínsecamente para amar y encontrar amor a través de otros, el comprenderlo, el asimilarlo, te hace vivir, vibrar en la 4° Dimensión. En ella todo es aprendizaje y te conviertes en un ser viviente que a donde vas, instalas tu presencia. Y todo lo que te rodea, se convierte en tu mejor testigo. “

LA CASA DE EJERCICIOS ESPIRITUALES
On Friday morning, Franco drove me the considerable distance to La Casa de Ejercicios Espirituales where I was to participate in a Dzogchen training. I was excited about it; I really wanted something phenomenal to happen while I was there. I had been reading the Tibetan Book of the Dead in preparation for the teachings on the process of dying from a Tibetan perspective. Death is a pretty serious business; it’s good to prepare for it, or, at least, give it some thought, and not just with your annuities and CD’s.

As it turned out the Book of the Dead, written down by Padmasambhava, a great Buddhist teacher from the eighth century, was not required reading. Our teacher, Keith Dowman, had a thorough grasp of the Dzogchen angle. The study of death has been considered a science for centuries in Tibet. What happens when you die and why and how can it be facilitated? The guidelines are extremely detailed and involve practicing techniques that take years to learn well. Keith Dowman shed much clarity on a serious subject. My best recommendation for when you get there is, “DO NOT PANIC! Just be as a young child, and watch with curiousity, and trust.”
During the retreat, I was discomforted by the loss of my luggage and had only one change of clothes. It was unseasonably cold and wet, so I ended up wearing a big blanket, taken from my dorm bed for most of the training. The location was a large monastery constructed in the 50’s with boxy, concrete dormitories and a bizarre looking A-frame church, sporting many triangularly shaped, stained-glass windows. In spite of the constant drizzle it was possible to enjoy the lush lawns, rose bushes, orange and lemon trees, and one enormous tree with a root system the size of a diesel truck. I didn’t really know anyone else very well so I kept my own counsel, occasionally climbing into my dorm bed, covering up with blankets, thinking about enlightenment when I wasn’t thinking about my lost luggage and its contents.

I could write a lot about what I learned from Keith who talked for three days with his low, lovely British accent, and in terse, coherent terms. Indeed it was a gift to me to know that I can go forward in my life, becoming more and more linked to the Absolute and less and less linked to the pedestrian. I will have to keep walking for a while longer, but I can enjoy the walk much more by knowing that it is my path, my practice and that I had better pay attention.

TEPOZ, HOME AGAIN AGAIN
Three days later, back in Tepoz, I was once again staying in the bungalow of my friend Hank. He was away so I had the place to myself. It is in the same small complex of bungalows where I had lived previously, and I knew the ropes, as well as the yard-keeper, how to pump up the water, how to turn on the water heater, when to put out the trash, and so on. Home again.

By the end of the first day, I had seen several acquaintances in town and drunk more coffee than I should have at the two coffee shops. I also spent some time on the internet attempting to ascertain that my “identity” had not been com promised by the loss of a photocopy of my credit cards and passport that I had carried in the stolen suitcase. (Ironically, I was trying to assure that I could cancel credit cards by carrying a photocopy.) I also attempted to deal with the bus company that had lost my luggage and the Mexican Consulate. Everything was basically OK, no major red flags.

By the next day, I had taken a good hike with my friend Augusta. We headed out to Amatlan and hiked the pilgrimage trail to Tlayacapan. She seemed good, in good spirits, and talking rather incessantly about her new boyfriend. So much for all the heavy philosophical conversations that we used to have as we hiked. Still, I was happy for her and knew to expect to hear more about romance than existentialism when we visited this round.

MIMI
While we were in the village of Amatlan I remembered that one of my students, Mimi, lived there and that I knew her street. We found her, but it was shocking. She had been really sick with parasites and amoebas and was extremely thin. She had been a tiny woman when I had taught her several months earlier, but now she was like a child. I could have carried her around over my shoulder.

She insisted upon serving us some pozole as the family had just eaten. I said sure. Mistake. We were served the pozole (hominy) with powdered oregano and onions and lemon, as is traditional. It tasted good enough although it was tepid. Later, she served us chicken tostados. We had planned to eat in Amatlan anyway, grab something at a new little café, so eating at Mimi’s seemed sensible. It tasted pretty good.
As we left, it occurred to me that we had just eaten tepid food in the home of a person who might have been permanently injured by parasites and amoebas and that these vile creatures might very well have come from her own kitchen. Oops! Augusta and I discussed our plight and decided that we needed an antidote so we looked for the market place, bought some epazote, washed it hurriedly with bottled water and ate a handful of the vile stuff. Reportedly that strong herb is used to kill intestinal enemies. It certainly tastes bad enough. Later, when I got home, I ate chopped garlic, then spun around three times and kicked my heels. (OK, kidding.)
The next day, there were visits with other friends, attempts to find a place to stay next week, more emails, grocery shopping, and shared tequilas at the bar. So went my revived life in Tepoz for the first two days. Significantly, I felt rather lost there without my job teaching ESL. It had given me a hub around which to turn each day. The teaching job was tedious at times, but the social contact with my students had been great. I felt almost panicky to think that I would have so much free time! Perhaps I would become another fixture at the local coffee shops where the “ex-pats” and the regular, under-occupied, Mexicans spend hours a day , chatting and watching. I could do that, at least, for a while.

THE NET
By now, it’s clear that many of the tight bonds that controlled me as a young person have loosened or even disintegrated. That makes me very fortunate in the big picture. The fact of my relative freedom from family or a husband have allowed me to pursue my infatuation with other cultures, my search for higher meaning, and my need to feel inspired or, at least, stimulated by my surroundings. I am extremely grateful for my “net.”

I stop here. It’s getting long. Tune in later for the next knot in the Net.

It’s been a while. It is a disturbing fact that I can’t seem to write much in Marfa. The muse has abandoned me. Now, I simply get up every day in my neat, old house;and, almost instantly, I begin my “list” of chores for that day. I decide which crack to caulk, which wall to paint, which drip to stop, and so forth. I am so quick to jump into my list-mode when I awaken that I can’t even remember my dreams. This probably doesn’t matter because I have always been inclined to dream about work, especially the repair and restoration of old houses. So, you see, even in my dreams I am working on old houses.

In fact you may have personally visited me in my dreams (the ones I can no longer remember). I almost always encounter my friends in my old-house dreams. Frequently, it is a “commune” situation in which we might have a room of bunks, or an enormous barn full of flowers or an outdoor compound around a campfire. I only wish that you were as available in my waking life as you are in my dreams (which I cannot remember). If I could remember you in my dreams, we could visit, and you could help me decide which wall to caulk, which drip to stop, and whatever else pops up.

The past several days may have marked a bit of a victory for me and my cool, old house. One of the reasons for my recent devotion to its repair has been its new status as a “vacation rental” home. (Vacation Rental by Owner #384654). I listed it a few weeks ago and have been frantically trying to fix it since so that a typical visitor to Marfa, where I live, would enjoy spending the night in it. Any questions regarding the comfort of others are not straight forward for me because I was basically “raised by wolves,” by which I mean that I preferred to stay out doors as a girl. Therefore, I missed out on much of the consumer training that women from the USA usually receive. My mom and my sisters were definitely schooled in domesticity through the informal university of female indoctrination. They studied Home Interior Design 101, Matching Curtains and Shams 201, Kitchen Appliance Trends 202, Use of Husband’s Credit Card 301, etc. But I never wanted to spend much time with my mother and sisters. For me, the painted turtles in the river bottom pools were more interesting. I always thought a sham was a type of trick and a duvet was something in a French bathroom, used on one’s rear end.

Therefore, when I decided to transform my house into a place with which your typical person could identify, I had to think about “your typical person.” Why did I decide to offer vacation rentals? It makes sense to me that as a person who is very inclined to travel and who doesn’t want to be tied down by a job, I should simply rent out my house when absent. This is only practical if a house is rentable and attractive and if there is someone to manage my house when I’m gone. I think I may have succeeded in these categories. I quickly decided that I couldn’t hope to think like your average person, whatever that means, so I’ve opted for Simple, Comfy, Charming, not necessarily typical.

Ironically I had sold or given away most of my possessions before I moved to Mexico eighteen months ago. Here is an earlier take on my return to Marfa several months ago and the fact of all my domestic possessions: ”Back in Marfa, my house, kitchen, and surroundings will be radically different (from Tepoztlan). It will require a real act of faith to begin to unload the life that I so carefully packed away in my Marfa garage last year before I left. Even though I had several yard sales at that time and gave many things away before my departure, I still left most of a garage bay full of books, pots, pans, memorabilia, pottery equipment, tools, paint cans, clothes and more clothes, artwork, and God knows what.“ Within the past few months I have been faced with the facts of the baggage of what was my “past life” which has become my current life. Therefore I had to bite the bullet and buy another queen-bed set even though I had given one away earlier. Needless to say, I have doubted my sanity on several occasions as I unpacked something that I thought I would never need again, like a food processor, and returned it to the kitchen.

Mostly though, I’ve had fun with the interior decoration and the process of becoming a “typical.” Sometimes I just buy the really simple items from a decent re-sale shop, or I get one of my sons to tell me what I need in the way of hi-tech. I have extensively reviewed what other rental sites are offering, just to be “in the game.” This has sent me looking far and wide for the expected amenities… lots of really soft towels, new mattresses with soft comforters, easy to find and use kitchen appliances and dishware, nice lighting and comfy chairs, and many other touches, including tiny soaps and shampoos such as found in hotel bathrooms. Now there are little laminated notes announcing, e.g. “Guest drawers: hair dryer, iron, and extra toiletries. “ I’m really LIVING SMALL!
As mentioned, I had my first guests over the past few day. I stayed with a friend in the interim. The friend-visit was neat; we had dinner, talked about things of common interest, went gallery hopping. It was great to have an excuse to spend “quality time” with her. How often do we really communicate with our friends?

I’ve now invested quite a bit of time and money in these comforts; furthermore I have unpacked and re-arranged my life. I have painted the interior of the house with extreme care, and I have arranged it all with modest yet, hopefully, harmonious groupings of art and furnishings, and, yes, knick-knacks! (I haven’t visited and lived in five countries without finding a few wonders.) It looks great. By preparing a house for others, I have created a great place for me.
With the first group of guests last weekend, the business is official. They were a young married couple and his parents. I met him at the house before their stay, and everything went well. When he arrived to get the key on the day of their occupancy, I suggested we make sure that he could get on line. He couldn’t. We tried my password which didn’t work. After much experimentation, his sharp-as a-tack sweetie figured it out. (The password had an upper-case S.) By the time I gave them the keys and finished the brief tour of the house, we were good buddies.

Later that night as I tried to fall asleep, it occurred to me that I’d only left six big towels for four people for three days. This thought kept me awake an extra half hour last night, kicking myself, which is not that easy when lying in bed. My mind was traveling the house, thinking of all its defects, its age, the impossible to remove stains, and so forth. I like my house, and I no longer notice its “wrinkles; but others would. Today my first guests left, and I re-occupied the house. It was spotless. They had even stripped the beds! I was relieved and confused alternately. Furthermore, I was really glad that I hadn’t charged a cleaning fee!

Obviously, a vacation rental can help pay the rent when one is in Mexico or Oregon, or on a Texas farm in the middle of nowhere. That’s a tremendous advantage. The owner is also in control of its availability; however, the owner is not in control of the demand. I honestly don’t know if I will have enough guest renters to make the tiny business worthwhile. We will see. Meanwhile, I wake up and try to think like a prosperous, middle-class person who would love to visit amazing Marfa, Texas and stay in my amazing house. It is an eighty year-old house so cleanliness is paramount to avoid a look of shabbiness. Furthermore, many of the homes in Marfa are gorgeously remodeled with all the latest touches. I have to hold up my head in spite of the fancy neighbors. The old house across the street from me was re-done to such a degree that it later sold for $600,000. Seriously! There are some serious old-house-tweakers in Marfa.

So, that’s what I have been doing. Oh, I have also visited with friends and hiked a bit and gone to yoga classes and taken a trip to central Texas to visit my family; but I have spent most of my time on the house project. I feel hopeful that I will do OK with this. If not, I have a really nice house for the first time in my life; and I will have to re-think things.

What do I think about? Mostly about my future when I can’t avoid it. I like being in my beautiful Marfa, but I’m not very connected here. I have tried in the past to make a difference and participate in the town through various pursuits: making and selling pottery, teaching Spanish to adults, teaching Spanish at the high school, teaching yoga classes. I have had little real success with any of these; indeed one of them was disastrous (high school). These discouragements were the chief reason for my decision to go to Mexico. Having returned, I can’t find the energy to try these things again. It just doesn’t seem that meaningful. However, I love the township; I have several good friends here; and I enjoy the surrounding mountains and scenery, immensely. I am happy here, BUT when I wake up, I just start working again. My mind is stuck in work mode; and I seldom write anything. I am only writing this because I miss Tepoz and my regulars, you guys, so much.

I continue to meditate and practice yoga almost daily. Indeed, I may take a certification course in Houston soon (200 hours) to be an “official” yogini. My spiritual practice continues to float up to the top of my life-cup. I think it must be appropriate to my stage of life although I will undoubtedly be the oldest person in the training. A few years ago I might have run for dog catcher or school board member here in Marfa.

In conclusion, I am in Marfa awaiting the development of this new rental project for now. This week is Thanksgiving, and my sons are making the seven-hour drive out here which will be great. We will hike in the high desert, eat a lot, drink too much; Jake will sing and entertain us. It will be fun. After that, who knows? I’m getting pretty good at this one-day-at-a-time stuff.

I miss Tepoz terribly. Yesterday, I saw a travel ad on a web site that showed a person seated in the overlook cave in Los corredores. I swear! It was the overlook. I have been there many times! I got so excited. And I love to receive emails from many of you; I follow what you are doing; I applaud your path onward and upward (arriba y adelante). I don’t know yet when I will get back. Much depends upon the demand for the house.

    Several Days Later

My sons arrived, the turkey’s poor carcass is becoming stock in the stockpot.Last night we celebrated brithday #31 for Jordan, or, I should say King Jordan. See the photo of the tall guy with a crown. Then over the next few weeks I will go to central Texas where my sister’s farm is located. She still wants me to help build the off-the-grid farm school and dormitory. I will see what it feels like to live in isolation four or five days of the week, then be surrounded by people on the weekend. If my “vacation rental” project works out, I will have the financial means to travel and/or work when and where I choose. If there’s too little demand for my house, I will drop back and punt…2 points. Wish me luck.

Do you believe in magic?
How do religious beliefs relate to magic?
How do the rituals and ceremonies of other cultures and religions resonate with you?

Ten people answered at least a part of these questions derived specifically from my blog post entitled “Eighty-nine Kinds of Seeds.” The post describes a week-long celebration held each year to honor the local god Tepozteco; it also marks his conversion to Christianity. I had added these questions at the end of the piece in order to query my readers and to see if my perceptions were in anyway similar. In hindsight the questions were too broad as were the answers, but the results are great.

The dictionary defines magic as: “Any unexplained control over the environment or the self by means that are either untested or untestable such as charms or spells.” Or it is, “The art of producing allusions by sleight of hand.” Obviously the latter definition is simpler. Clearly, they are different. For my purposes, we are not talking about the magician with the hat and the white rabbit because we assume that it is a trick; and, therefore, it is not “testable.” It only indicates skill on the part of the performer.

Nor does my sense of magic, while in Tepoz, seem an attempt to control an environment through charms, etc. In fact, it seems that the environment is controlling me. The magic that I experience is an increased awareness and a heightened sensibility; I have described it in the “Eighty-nine Seeds” blog post, part of which I quote here. It prompted me to enjoy each moment more fully and to begin to really explore my surroundings and insights. In the post, I said, “I want to know his (the god’s) history and magic. There has been no day during my eighteen month stay here when I have not loved the mountain and felt a curious exhilaration simply to be there. To watch a group of people carefully touching, patting, and examining these exalted images (this in reference to the seed tapestry) is almost tactile; no, Tantric in its resonance.

Yet is it not by observing and pondering the life that surrounds us that we begin to know our own truth and sense of spirit? No matter what a person’s faith, is not the real “doctrine” internal: what we learn through our suffering and joy? So to be in love with a place is probably not radically different from kneeling in a church of beauty and calm, and examining that faith. Nor is it different from the gratitude that we feel for our own safety and health or that of our family, and so forth.”
Here I am referring to my sense of increased awareness. I think that this is what I refer to as “magic” and what seems stronger in Tepoz than elsewhere. When the local people state that ‘Tepozteco is angry’ when the wind is very strong, it illustrates that the presence of a god-like force is felt by others in the community. It is true? Certainly they think so, and they do a variety of offerings and ceremonies throughout the year to maintain the god’s presence. Can the success of these ceremonies be tested empirically? No. Yet the locals continue to leave special meals and pulque liquor on top of the pyramid and make the sign of the cross when they pass in front of one of the many churches. Are they influenced by the same power or force that has heightened my sensibilities? Do others have similar experiences in other places? Is it the place or the attitude? Here are a few answers to the three questions above.

One friend wrote, “II just got back from the Grand Canyon, Bryce, Zion and Lake Powell…all surrounded by great beauty that left me in a state of awe. As I watched the sun set on the hoodoos of Bryce, my breath caught as I saw them light up and become translucent changing before my very eyes. I wanted to cry, the beauty was so spectacular. Everywhere I went the majesty of nature surrounded me and I could ignore the crowds and just live in my mind. That WAS magic and I was left with a spiritual feeling that maybe, just maybe, there is a god…of some kind. I often feel alone in this world and I am dropping friends like crazy; but when I see stupendous sights of nature, mountains, canyons, animals, rivers, night skies, etc., I no longer feel alone and I have come to believe it just might be alright.”

Or, another, somewhat similar, response, “Yes, I believe in magic. It is necessary for ever day life. Every day should have a little magic (or a lot) in it. Without magic, one just merely exists. Magic makes things happen…goes right there with hope and dreams (in which a lot of magic happens). Sometimes religious beliefs are totally immersed with magic. Sometimes it totally debunks magic, denies magic and thinks it evil…. I wish I could answer the last question with some expertise, but I have not had the opportunity to experience other cultures; and the brief experiences of other religions also does not afford me the belief I can state something with conviction and knowledge”

Then a more organized response with great heart: “1) I do not believe that humankind has the power to perform true supernatural acts though I do believe in magic, occurrences that are inexplicable – maybe this ‘magic’ is more of a mystery. There are many performance types of ‘magic’ but to me this ‘magic’ is more in the form of tricks. 2) If one believes that God created the universe and all that is in it (as I do) rather than the ever evolving and so-called big bang scientific theory there must be an infinite measure of mystery and magic in that belief. 3) I give complete credence and respect to all religions and cultures and the rituals and ceremonies attend thereto. I do, however, strongly believe that if we loved individuals rather than religions and cultures (groups), we could come much closer to peace on earth. I rarely meet someONE that I don’t like and eventually love. I also believe strongly that music is THE universal language.

So far, according to these ideas, magic is present, intangible, mysterious, and necessary for existence.

Then the idea is carried on to include spirituality here, “I am pondering your questions but probably the answer for me would be that all of this is on some kind of continuum. That is, magic/witchcraft being on one end of the continuum and spirituality on the other. But that, of course, is entirely based on one’s own beliefs. Where does mysticism fall? Where do miracles fall? Where does “religion” fall? Because, for me, religion can be both “good” or “evil”. Actually this is sounding more like a circle.”

And another response, combining the magical with the spiritual, “Yes, I believe in magic. Magic for me is whatever surpasses my immediate perception, things that happen unexpectedly, or whose cause we can´t see then. Religious practices, at least the meditation practice I follow, help you to let go of the rational mind or thinking mind and open to intuition and the energies that are there in the universe, and that allows you maybe, to perceive something unexpected or more subtle which could be called magic. Most religious rituals open you up beyond your immediate mind. I follow the ones in my line of meditation, but they are all good in each system.”

And another magic proponent in-the-wild, “Yes, I do believe. And, as nature is my religion, I find magic in it all the time. I wish I were more worldly to answer your last question, but from what I have experienced along the border, I find the Mexican ceremonies to be more interesting and more delightful than many of the bland rituals we have in the states.”

From a person who lives in Tepoztlan, “ I too love the Tepozteco! Personally, I feel it to be sad that he was basically forced to become a Christian and all the damage that has come from that. However, I think it´s great that the rituals unite people and some traditions are awesome. Magic? hehehe, you bet I believe in magic and I believe it can be anywhere! That is what is so magical about Magic.”

Now we have a more “rationalist” viewpoint that still allows for mystery, “Do I believe in magic? Probably not as I think you mean it here. I find various natural settings inspiring, awesome, wonderful; many places, in various lights and seasons. Some are so powerful that I don’t want to stay there. But mainly I’m a rationalist and not sensitive to feelings of magic. Others seem to be and I have to participate vicariously. How do religious beliefs relate to magic? I don’t know. I’m not into religious beliefs any more than magic.
How do the rituals and ceremonies of other cultures and religions resonate with me? I think that rituals and ceremonies of any kind don’t much resonate with me.”

And from another person who expressed his doubts very clearly, “I only believe in the third definition: the art of producing illusions by sleight of hand.” As regards the connection between religion and magic, “they relate directly. No basis on science.” And regarding the extent to which rituals and ceremonies resonate with him, “Not at all. They are hocus pocus that merit little for me- though they are often amusing. I am not a traditionally religious person. No church or beliefs in supernatural- just science.”
My answers:
1) Do you believe in magic?
Yes, I believe in magic if by that we mean significant experiences or phenomena that go beyond what can be explained by facts and testing. Most of us have been motivated or surprised by events that defy reason. This might also come under the heading of the paranormal within certain categories. I can attempt to explain the reasons for my acute happiness and intensely insightful transformation when I arrived in Tepoztlan, but I usually end up concluding that Tepoz is indeed magic for me. (Some have said that it has to do with the huge quantities of uranium in the Tepoz mountains.)
2) How do religious beliefs relate to magic? Obviously, magic and miracles, which amount to the same thing, have a huge role in religion. Moses parted the Red Sea; Mary was a virgin; Christ turned water into wine. They are still studying the Turin shroud of Christ’s face for authenticity. In non-Christian religions, the same is true. The Aztec used human or animal sacrifice to make time go forward. The Tarahumara Indians (Raramuri) blow smoke in a newborns face for strength. There are countless examples of the use of spells and devices to gain the assistance of some supreme power, above and beyond. Basically, prayer is an attempt to use magic to achieve some kind of control over ones destiny. Now, do these tricks actually work? That’s another question, we’ll call it 4).

3) How do the rituals and ceremonies of other cultures and religions resonate with you? I am a practicing Buddhist. In Buddhism there is no god per se. We each seek an internal truth striving to gain oneness with our universe. Buddhism has a lot of “bells and whistles” and resembles Catholicism in its ornate trappings, but there are no saints and no gods. There are visual representations of deities, but the practitioner is to identify with the characteristics that he or she shares with said deity. There is no actual worship. This is OK with me, and I have experienced a type of magic by practicing meditation; it has changed me.
In general I enjoy the rituals and ceremonies of other cultures. For one thing they are frequently lovely and colorful and full of sounds and smells. As in the aforementioned “bells and whistles,” the events are completely sentient engaging the participants fully. I admire this and enjoy the joy usually manifest in the eyes of the others. Is it a magical experience for me? Not really, more like a cultural visit.

4) Do these tricks really work? Did Moses really part the Red Sea? I don’t know. If he did, it was a major miracle and beyond what we usually describe as magic. In the bible, magic was strongly discouraged, nonetheless, oracles were consulted and people returned from the dead. I am sufficiently skeptical of the bible to avoid serious exploration of these miracles. The events are unexplained.

However, looking at the broadest possibilities, there is sufficient scientific fact to indicate that our perceptions, responses, and health are strongly impacted by our emotions (and our limbic system). If we believe in magic, it can help elevate our moods and even health. When we are in a meditative state, for example, our brain produces serotonin and endorphins which improve our outlook and may help heal neurons. We all know that stress is a source of unhappiness and health problems so anything that alleviates stress or produces serotonin might be presumed to enhance our life. This may be what I have experienced as magic. This may connect with the round-the-campfire practices of the American Indian cultures in which they chant and affirm whatever needs affirming at that moment. The responses of our brains to our hearts’ longings are empirical evidence of why people love mountain tops, adore hugging babies, and sing in the shower. How much power can this type of response have over our moods and perceptions? Certainly, such a harmonious moment will reveal a greater truth than a conflicted one.
In conclusion, we benefit through opening our hearts to greater truths than are obvious. Without a heightened sensibility, we can miss many surprises and live trodden lives. By remaining open to the possibility of miracles and magic, they can occur in myriad forms. By becoming excessively programmed to ossified mental and physical patterns, we lose the possibility to have new insights. For that reason, we must climb that peak, listen to waterfall, and find that magic. To play with Descartes phrase, “I think therefore I am;” “I believe in magic, therefore it exists.”

Eighty-nine Kinds of Seeds
Every year the village of Tepoztlan re-enacts the ritual of Tepozteco. This ritual, El Reto de Tepozteco, commemorates the conversion of the last Tepoztecan king to Catholicism, in 1538. It is a fascinating event, or series of events, in that it brings the entire community together for over a week to prepare for and enact the ceremonies which conjure up not only the recognizably Christian aspects but also the pervasive pre-Columbian traditions and values. I was raised a Catholic, but I have spent many years studying “non-Christian,” indigenous cultures. Therefore, this marriage of both was a wonderful engagement. Spiritually and esthetically, it has been awesome for me.
Today, I spent several hours in the large tent which is raised each year in front of the amazing and gorgeous sixteenth century church, La Natividad. The tent is raised for the purpose of constructing an enormous and impressive portal, or entrance way, guarding the church grounds. The entrance is re-designed yearly to reflect some aspect of local history. The most significant feature of the artistic project is not its incredible beauty, once mounted before the church yard, but the fact that the design is made out of local seeds and beans. I asked the person in charge of the decoration of the images how long the process had been on going. He said, “We’ve been constructing and decorating the entrance way for twenty years. For the first three years we used plastic flowers; now we use these seeds.” There are reportedly eighty-nine different seeds, amongst which….
The final effect is more like a tapestry than anything else. Imagine a tapestry that’s twenty feet tall and about that wide with a twelve foot passage way through the middle. The tall, vividly colored portal is mounted in front of an ancient church, itself with an impressive façade. Now, imagine that hundreds of people that have sat at long tables under a tarp for a week, studying and implementing a small part of the carefully traced design of said “tapestry.” He or she is to fill each design-space with a specific type and color of seed, bean, or grain, using a type of white glue. Then imagine a group of men who struggle to assemble and mount the large structure using the bed of a truck and long, strong poles. That step is rather frightening, with everyone watching, holding his or her breath, hoping that no one falls.
This year’s portal depicts the literal history of the conversion: in 1538, the king, who was always called Tepozteco, had become friends with a priest, Father Domingo de la Asuncion, who had convinced him of the virtues of Christianity. He had decided to be baptized. However, at that time there were several other kings, still powerful in the small, neighboring, empires that were vehemently opposed. The portal mural shows the arrival of the kings from Yautepec, Cuernavaca, Tlayacapan, and Oaxtepec; they are armed with glorious weapons in order to show their disapproval. The background behind the fours kings (and several images of priests) is the fabulous Tepozteco Mountain upon which lies the pyramid by the same name, itself a symbol of spiritual power.
It is difficult to describe the detail and correctness with which this “paint-by-sketch-design” project is done. The mountains in the background almost jump out, in spite of their construction of various colors and shapes of beans. The tall cliffs shoot up with long black corn kernels which have been slit to slivers with special pliers; the round tree tops are circles and spirals of small, flat, greenish beans. Obviously, ‘a picture is worth a thousand beans,” or perhaps several millions beans.
Equally impressive is the number and variety of “craftsmen” in the tent who all appear to be immersed in the process of gluing the seeds as correctly as possible. All ages are accounted for. The huge panels have been cut into parts to be re-assembled later; but still, in several instances, someone has to sit on top of the panels to complete the careful designs because of the size of the panels. It was especially heartening to see the number of school-age kids who were there, working intently to insure that their history was re-enacted and preserved. Once the ambitious project is completed, a heavy sealant will be applied to insure that the portal last for most of the year until the next ceremony. It will then be mounted using a lot of man power, literally, as already mentioned.
If my description of the intricacies and breadth of the project seem exaggerated, and my response to the devoted workers is excessive, then the reader will have to remember that I am” in love” with this god, Tepoztecatl who is being commenorated. I, too, want to apply thousands of tiny seeds to a beautiful mural to honor the god-man-mountain-town of Tepozteco. I want to know his history and magic. There has been no day during my eighteen month stay here when I have not loved the mountain and felt a certain exhilaration simply to be here. To watch a group of people carefully touching, patting, and examining these exalted images is almost tactile, no Tantric, in its resonance. OK, well, maybe I’m “too much in love.”
Yet is it not by observing and pondering the life that surrounds us that we begin to know our own truth and sense of spirit? No matter what a person’s faith, is not the real “doctrine” internal: what we learn through our suffering and joy? So to be in love with a place is probably not radically different from kneeling in a church of beauty and calm, and examining that faith. Nor is it different from the gratitude that we feel for our own safety and health or that of our family, and so forth.
Yesterday, I had a chance to sit on my porch and talk with an older, local man who had brought a copy of “El Reto” which is the original, spoken challenge that the king, Tepozteco, offered to the four neighboring kings who confronted him in 1538. My friend had a copy in the original Nahuatl which he read aloud. It is a beautiful tongue, and I was thrilled to read along in Spanish. It basically explained the kings’ decision to accept Catholicism, lay down arms, and ask for peace.
Keep in mind that this god, Tepoztecatl (or, sometimes Tepozteco), was not only considered the actual mountain itself, but also the surrounding territory. He is the place in which we walk around every day. His role and presence is still taught within the home and in the schools. To quote Yolanda Corona and Carlos Perez in their book, Tradicion y Modernidad en Tepoztlan, “The identity of Tepozteco is elusive…he appears as a hill, as the wind, as a young god… It is common to hear the people say, ‘Tepozteco is angry,’ when the wind is very strong.” The presence of a god-like force is felt in the community.
This is an official “magic pueblo” within the standards applied by the federal government. To the people it has always been so.This might explain the new-age, spiritual type announcements that I noticed today when I was at an upscale restaurant/bookstore. There were two ads for therapeutic massage; two, for new age spirituality; four, for yoga; one, for a presentation regarding the history of the city, and then several “normal” ads for the usual places to rent, language classes, and so forth. That was all. The people of Tepoztlan, the originals and the new-comers like me, are seeking something above and beyond the rudimentary. Even my friend who wanted to introduce me to the Nahuatl text of “El Reto” sustains this sense of magic and spirit.
Does this magic exist elsewhere? I suspect that it does. My other home is Marfa, Texas, a small town famous for its mystery lights. I have seen the mystery lights, only once, but they ARE mysterious. (I have been to the viewing area for the lights about twenty times and have only seen them once, but that was enough to make me a “believer.”) Is this magic just a case of having heightened sensibilities?” Perhaps. There are probably adepts who are able to sense things that I cannot, sort of like a water dowser or a clairvoyant. Being someone who is admittedly rather obtuse, I am in no position to judge the sensibilities of more sensitive people.
I do know that I have gained a much greater appreciation for my surroundings; I have become more mindful. Furthermore, I experience it frequently, in the eyes of a child, the hand movements of an old shaman. It (magic) is out there for each of us if we can divest ourselves of the incredible business and overstimulation of our everyday world to see the intricacy and sensuality of our everyday world. If I don’t listen to talk radio while I drive to work, I might notice the clouds or actually taste my coffee. I might remember something of real meaning or have a subtle insight that could only surface in a quiet moment. However, having said this, I have to admit that my arrival in this land of richness and simplicity has tipped the scale for me, allowing me to experience many things at a more visceral level.
Next week is the actual enactment of “El Reto de Tepozteco,” the night when the residents ascend up to the pyramid on the mountain at dark, carrying flashlights and lanterns. The journey to the pyramid represents a type of salute to the continued presence of the god-hero-man in Tepoztlan. What I have not emphasized here is that the group of people in the tent today, completing the tapestry of seeds, still accept the pre-Columbian role of the god. They also accept that he converted to Catholicism, but that fact simply makes him easier to accept as their kind of god. They too are Catholics; they attend mass, occasionally, baptize their children, usually, and believe that the wind is a representation of Tepozteco whose father was known as the god of the wind. There is no conflict between the two beliefs.
“El Reto,” the Procession to the Pyramid
Today was a day of boundless energy as the town came to life. The cohetes (firecracker rockets) began early, then the sound of brass bands and church bells. The town was on the move to celebrate the annual festival commemorating the god for which it was named. At noon I climbed the 600 feet up to the pyramid. I was running late for the ceremony sponsored by “city hall” to honor the tradition and the god. I arrived late, sweaty, with several dozen other people in time to be given a small clay bowl with Mole sauce (a rich, complex cuisine) to carry up to the pyramid platform. There were people of all types and ages but none that looked particularly like tourists. The steep climb itself would discourage the faint-hearted, rather literally in this case as the ascent is quite aerobic. We climbed the very narrow steps up to the small platform to hear a few city officials go on about the role of tradition in the town; one woman gave profuse thanks for the gift of life and for the beautiful place. She also thanked the Virgin of the Nativity, for whom the ancient church is named, calling her Tepoztecatl’s mother which I found puzzling as the god lived about seven centuries ago.
Then there was a brief ceremony in which a man and woman burned copal incense, then blew upon conch shells, turning to the four separate directions. Although I have seen this process enacted so many times since I arrived, it is still touching, this honoring of the Earth, the sky and the directions of our energy. After the ceremony, we were given celebratory cups of pulgue (maguey liquor) and then offered a dish of green chicken mole which is a great delicacy, the mole sauce being made from roasted pumpkin seeds. It really is tasty.
Gradually we all trundled back down the steep path to town where many other celebratory events awaited us in the forms of dances, more meals and pulque, music, the mounting of the portal made from seeds onto the churchyard entrance, and so forth. The main procession of the Virgin of the Nativity occurred with a large brass band and many worshippers to carry the virgin in her fancy glass case and all the flags of the different churches and, of course, many arm loads of flowers to lay at her feet.
The events of the next evening, the finale of the main part of the celebration were interesting for their incredible irony. The final ceremony enacts the scene previously described in the seed-portal. Someone referred to it as the “meztization” of the Americas by which is meant the point at which the two cultures were wed to form a new “race” and culture. In this event, a group of people in elaborate costumes descend from the mountain of Tepozteco; they included the king, Tepozteco, his soldiers and aids dressed as jaguars, eagles, and other creatures. There were also a large number of “doncellas” or maidens of different ages, dressed beautifully and walking with an exaggerated pace.
They were heading for a large cross, mounted on an enormous concrete globe that marks the point at which the original baptism occurred. It is placed at the mouth of the largest spring, called Axitli, that feeds the pipes for the public water supply in town. The water for the spring is birthed out of the mountain of Tepozteco and flows constantly. Also at this site is an extraordinary cypress tree, said to be over 500 years old, that is split down its center forming a passageway about six feet wide. This is called the “door” to the magic mountain trail. At this place containing the cross, the spring, and the sacred tree, the ceremony is re-enacted every year.
Sacrilege?
A few days before this event I had been walking by there with my friend Arturo who had mentioned that there used to be a large cave there where the spring still flows and that it had been considered sacred. However, some people had gotten the property, closed off the cave, and built the small chapel barely visible from above. This seemed rather unfair at the time, especially as the cave/shrine was sacred to the villagers. It was also puzzling because the properties and lands in Tepoztlan tend to be rather difficult to own outright due to title discrepancies and tradition. So how had someone gotten the property and walled it off?
I had planned to attend the ceremony alone, walking the short distance from my place to the site; but a friend had been invited to view the event from another friend’s property. I decided to go with her. When we arrived, the property owner gave a tour of his place which is absolutely huge (five hectares) and includes a large part of Tepozteco Mountain. He has done a lot of work on the property, hoping to turn it into a site for weddings and large, elegant celebrations. I am not fond of excessive wealth; furthermore, I knew a bit about the man who is an estate lawyer. I knew that he had had to leave the country for several years to avoid being murdered, that his sister had sued him, that he sleeps with a gun, and so forth. I did not envy this man in spite of his ownership of a gorgeous mountain which I happen to love.
The irony is that the “good view” was from the chapel that had closed off the cave several decades past, blocking the sacred spring. We all stood looking over the heads of the participants in the ceremony, behind a chain-link fence which actually reduced the visibility. Furthermore, it was only possible to see the back side of the action. The best view was, of course, down below with the people surrounding and watching the event. I doubt, however, that the property ower, my host, would take the time to go down with the celebrants to be one of the crowd. So I, too, missed the heart of the action. Ironic.
Fortunately, the parade into town was splendid with the sounds of the tepontle drum and the odd-sounding wind-instruments and the scores of costumed dancers. I stepped around the parade and rushed into town to meet a friend at my favorite coffee shop from which I got to watch the parade all over again as the participants past the ancient church and the marketplace in the heart of the town. It was an amazing evening and an incredibly memorable week combining the histories of two cultures and two approaches to spirituality.

Questions for you, please. Your answers would be fascinating here:
Do you believe in magic?
How do religious beliefs relate to magic?
How do the rituals and ceremonies of other cultures and religions resonate with you?

The Ponderer

I am sitting on my sofa surrounded by books and snippets of paper which are related to several specific, recent questions: how the mind works, what is fundamental to human nature, and how to remain OK with suffering. I stumble upon these questions now as I write in my journal or blog or as I “argue” with friends as we are walking on Tepozteco Mountain, up the road from where I live. Or as I sit and ponder.
According to the book by Jack Kerouac, Wake Up, the Buddha used to relax every afternoon in a state of pondering, not meditating, but pondering. I find that I do that a lot. Sometimes I multi-ponder. If the variety of printed material on my sofa is any indication, I’m hyper-pondering
At my side, there is a book by Ken Wilbur here that describes the various levels of perception of the mind. I consulted this book to pursue the definition of consciousness. There are also the notes that I took at a lecture I attended last weekend, by Tibetan Buddhist teacher Keith Dowman, relating to the workings of the mind as regards perception and non-duality. In addition, I wrote a few notes from a book by Jeff Baker called Heard Around the Fire, Teachings of Grandfather Fire; the first, short chapters that I read were lovely and described the different response of the mind and the heart to the world. The teachings from the deceased Huichol shaman are manifest in the person of a large, educated, Anglo who lives and teaches in Mexico.
In addition to the words and ideas of the aforementioned lofty thinkers, I have within arms’ reach my own ideas; they are my personal to-do list: a few definitions of Tibetan words: dharmakaya (truth body), rigpa (intrinsic awareness). There are also the phrases “We create God as our essence. God creates us as her essence.” Then, “Gracias a nosotros dios se conoce a si mismo. ” Thanks to us, God knows her/himself.” Also, “Life is fruitful. No fruit, no life.”
My question is, “How can anyone have so many questions at once?” Before I moved to Tepoztlan seventeen months ago, I had fewer questions. I was living in my beautiful hometown Marfa: I was meditating a bit daily, as is my rather self-indulgent tendency; but I was mostly watching my mind. It was like watching a playground. Sometimes the thoughts and ideas played nicely, trading things, climbing up and down; at times they ran around the psychic playground mightily trying to catch something. Occasionally there were spats, emotional displays that spoiled the scene and had to be dealt with by an adult (me). I now know that my learning curve was pretty low in Marfa; it was time for a change of scene. I came to Tepoztlan.
This town is called “magic” and “sacred;” the first label was given by the federal government and designates the status as one of forty Mexican cities said to be the best representations of the essence of Mexico; the second, “sacred,” was granted by the indigenous peoples of Mexico, beginning over a thousand year ago, when the priests, shamans, and emperors of the different groups began to make pilgrimages here. They traveled from as far south as Guatemala to climb Tepozteco Mountain and to the pyramid above it. Maybe the place is magic.
I arrived in Tepoz and began to write; I had to record my experiences here amongst these wonderful people and within the embrace of the mountains surrounding the town. Although I have written in journals for almost forty years, I have never devoted myself to the craft on a daily basis. Living around me were many other people asking the same types of questions that I ask.
Before long I was translating a book about the Mayan calendars and the 2012 cosmic shift; I was studying about chakras; I was attending Huichol sweat lodge ceremonies; and I was going out with men who were radically different from my homeboys. It was a whole new world, physically and mentally. Below I will describe in some detail my latest effort to answer questions. As is usual, I process large amounts of information to answer my very specific questions which I hope/think are fairly applicable to the lives of other people. This essay is not about Buddhism or the Dzogchen state but rather about my response to a few new ideas that I was fortunate enough to receive this weekend.
I attended a retreat which “featured” teacher Keith Dowman, a man who has lived in Nepal, practicing Buddhism, for the past forty years. He is a portly Englishman who has a strong following here amongst his mostly Mexican students. I caught a ride out to the “resort” with a local man; he still drives his forty year old Volkswagen, pewter gray. It was a treat, riding in the familiar VW cab, listening to the staccato sound of the four cylinder engine. My very first car was a similar VW; but that’s another story.
The location for the retreat was on the other side of Tepoztlan Mountain’s “embrace,” with which I am so familiar. From the resort one sees the back side of the same columnar cliffs, cloaked in thick mist, only the heads visible. Our arrival met with considerable confusion regarding who, amongst the participants, was to stay in what room; and it soon became clear that our promised lunch was to be broken. Therefore, before anything could really get underway, most of the approximately thirty students headed back to town to eat lunch. Upon our return, questions of comfort were resolved, and we began our studies.
The teaching hall was a large, stolid, stone structure, maybe forty by forty feet, with many large windows, some screened, some glassed in. The hall had been laid out with quite a bit of Tibetan regalia, including thankgas, flower arrangements, oriental rugs, and a large number of rolled up sleeping bags that were to be our cushions for the three day experience. There was a general feel of organized chaos and positive inquiry. Most of the students were “devotees” and knew each other well; I only knew a few.
It is difficult for me to write about Keith’s teachings. (He is known simply as Keith although respect for him abounds. This informal address is ironic within the context of both the stratified, Mexican culture and the Tibetan hierarchy of teachers.) He is very succinct and careful, weighing his words carefully as he faces the group of about thirty students, from his elevated cushion.
He begins by telling us that there is no technique for what he is teaching regarding an approach to enlightenment or primordial awareness. He says that we are all already there, that we can only realize that natural state in our own minds. Here, for this essay, I’m going to totally “cop out” and go to the definition offered by Wikipedia for Dzogchen, the state of mind to which we were all directed. It seems adequate; and in view of the subtlety of the experience, it seems best to go with a standard, comprehensible version. To wit:
“According to Tibetan Buddhism and Bön, Dzogchen… is the natural, primordial state or natural condition of the mind, and a body of teachings and meditation practices aimed at realizing that condition…. From the perspective of Dzogchen, the ultimate nature of all sentient beings is said to be pure, all-encompassing, primordial awareness or naturally occurring timeless awareness…The analogy given by Dzogchen masters is that one’s nature is like a mirror which reflects with complete openness but is not affected by the reflections, or like a crystal ball that takes on the colour of the material on which it is placed without itself being changed. The knowledge that ensues from recognizing this mirror-like clarity, which does not have an intrinsic existence in itself, (reveals) that there is a primordial freedom from grasping his or her mind. http://www.answers.com/topic/dzogchen#ixzz1WMxdUsW3
What does this have to do with you, or me? What did I gain from the talks over three days? Dowman’s probing analysis of Dzogchen had much to do with our dualistic minds, how we live with them. I have lived much of my life in reaction to opposites: pain, pleasure, love, hate, fear, safety, and so forth. Only within the last decade have I begun to feel that I could simply respond to situations rather than react, sometimes, over-react. These discussions of extremes and the dualistic nature of our minds and the possibility of harmony were intriguing.
Now I remove myself/us from the realm of Dowman’s possibly “rarefied” thoughts and place it in my life and mind which I consider typical in most ways. I attribute my (earlier) highly fearful and polarized emotional structure as a fairly normal response to certain aspects of my childhood. I consider that I had the determination to carry own; also, typical. I feel that my life experiences, especially my motherhood, have been transformative for me; I consider that simply getting older has shortened the “string on my personal yo-yo heart and even given it a bit of elasticity. Finally, there is no doubt that my practice of meditation has changed my emotional dynamics in a positive way. To summarize here, I have had much experience with a dualistic mindset and have been a victim of it; now it is less powerful. Whether or not this transformation from reactivity to simple responsiveness has any connection to Dzogchen and the non-dual mind is arguable; but this type of question motivates me.
Within his talks, Dowman says repeatedly that meditation can be of little use to us. I think that what he means is that one can meditate, or simply become a calm, grounded, receptive person and still miss the expansive mind of Dzogchen. I have no color-coded card that tells me when I am experiencing primordial consciousness; there is no bell that chimes. However, for several years now, I have benefitted from the simple ability to be totally present in my body and mind, receptive to whatever and whoever is around me. Occasionally I will surprise myself by not reacting in some habitual way to what might have bugged me in my past. There is no doubt that I am less reactive and more receptive/responsive. Indeed, I have moments of complete surrender and bliss, as described by my moments on the top of Tepozteco Mountain, when I seem to quite literally disappear into some other state. This is HUGE for little-ole-me.
Several days ago I hopped on a Combi (public van) to go to Amatlan, a neighboring village which is known to be the birth-place of Quetzalcoatl. It was crowded, as usual; and I sat next to a woman with a baby. The woman was quite small with dingy clothing. The baby, who was nicely dressed in a white dress, began to pound my leg with her tiny hands, wiggling a lot. The mother took the baby to her breast. Suddenly, I had this intense sensation of absolute immersion into life, its rich breadth of agony and joy. It was as if my spiritual skin had crawled with the intensity of it. Then it was gone, and I was back on the Combi with a dozen other people.
On a less intense level, these “sensations,” epiphanies, whatever, are available to me when I just let my mind go and ponder. There is no list, nothing to do, nowhere to go. Which leads me to my next question: Is it possible that by residing in my own less-conflicted life, I will lose the ability to participate in the still-conflicted situations that life serves up so readily? In this context, I have noticed recently that I have less interest in the crises of my friends, in political polemics, even in what I should do next in my own life. I have gone from being a person who loved a challenge, a goal, an “impossible dream,” to someone who waits for the right answer to present itself. Indeed, I still have not “decided” where I live right now. I seem to be living in three different places in my heart: Tepoztlan, Marfa, and Central Texas. For now I find that OK; my “indecision” seems almost a form of detachment which, if viewed from a Buddhist angle, is good training.
I also seem much less interested in looking for any kind of romantic involvement. OK, so maybe it’s just my diminishing hormones; but I am satisfied to “hold my own counsel,” not stretching toward some challenging relationship with its concomitant joy and, inevitably, conflict. So often, amorous involvements have required a type of self-editing, physically and mentally, that I now consider tedious. For example, I no longer want to shave my legs, wear push-up bras, or “flirt.” If any man would like to be my friend or lover, these will not be major issues. He will have to see me for what I am and know and offer in a relationship.
My point here is that by feeling a part of life, by responding spontaneously rather than contriving, a person can experience contentment and joy. In turn, this contentment serves to help others by letting them into that calm place within an interaction. If we are to make a difference in the lives of others, we must first change our own lives. Life is dualistic; there is love and hate, sometimes hand in hand; but such extremes are ultimately uncomfortable. Even if you are an advocate of “make-up” sex, you know that it leaves you raw. Through the simple act of pondering your own thoughts and impulses and seeing them in the context of this beautiful, ugly world in which we reside, you can simply be and let your light shine for others. This light may serve to enlighten fully.

Mountain Mentality

I’m back in Tepoztlan and back in dialog with my friend Augusta. Today we explored the basic human response to majestic mountains. Mentioned were Mount Shasta, Fuji, T’aishan, and the Himalayas. Of course our local mountain, Tepozteco, was at the top of the list.

I have only been back from my Marfa, Texas home (also in the “mountains”) for a day, but already I feel the tremendous energy of this place, the Sacred Valley of Tepozteco. Yesterday we climbed most of the way up to find a waterfall. As we are in the rainy season, Tiempo de lluvias, it was an amazing hike.

When I left here nine weeks ago, everything was totally brown, not ugly actually but dry and dusty and warm. With the life-giving rains, the cliff faces surrounding the town are dripping with bright green and the cobblestone streets are clean and shiny. Speaking graphically, it’s as if the streets have been flushed and all the curtains washed and air-dried. This is not to mention the “vases” or flowers placed here and there: the orchids sprouting from trees, the wildflowers climbing from the heavily-leafed woods, and the plums hanging from the exquisite native plum trees Then there are sprays of yellow bouquets lining the streets and bursting from unlikely cracks and crevasses. I feel that it is a welcome home party for me, a person returning from dreadfully, sadly dry Texas where everyone is watching the promising clouds for the fulfillment of rain.
And, of course, I am hiking back up the mountain.

Yesterday, Augusta and I climbed Tepozteco Peak in order to visit a gorgeous waterfall of which there are several during the rainy season. As we stood on an outcropping before reaching the cascade, we saw the city of Tepoztlan below, embraced by column-like cliffs and laced with new green foliage. Flowers lay at our feet and climbed the stones and branches around us. Enhancing the view were the sounds of our destination, the large waterfall and the trickling seeps of the tiny ones spurting from the volcanic rocks; and then there were birdsongs. All of this had us in “surround sound,” a real virtual reality.

When we heard a woman’s shouts from up ahead, we rushed to the cascade. There we found Nellie; she is a British girl who had made it to the cascade shortly before we did. She was shouting “Bloody Hell” in response to the frigid waters below the falls as she slithered in and out of the pool, fully clothed, looking like a lovely dark-haired, buxom salamander. Much laughter ensued.

The question for that day became: “Does the powerful human response to a mountain emanate from the head or the heart?” My initial thought was that the one’s mind is so awed by the solid truth of the mountain, by its enormity, that it simply allows the heart to take over. My friend Augusta said, “Well, maybe the mind has to move through perception and some conditioned response before giving way to pure consciousness.” Then I said, ”Yeah, maybe the mind just side-steps cognition allowing for a greater sensibility, Big Mind. Maybe the heart expands into Big Mind, becoming something like love.”

Of course we then had to examine the meaning of the word consciousness which led to a review of the five skandhas in Buddhism: form, feeling, perception, cognition, and consciousness; then we looked at the eight parts of consciousness: the five sense, the mind, the conditioned mind, and absolute consciousness. Soon it began to sound (taste?) like spiritual soup, but we agreed that mountain gazing has a profound and instant effect on the mind, allowing it to open and relax and understand, beyond its usual mental constraints. We also knew that hiking into and simply being in the presence of the mountain and the village below the mountain has been transformative.

Can a mountain view or any other powerful experience of nature, let’s say in a moment of repose, bring us to the brink of enlightenment? Can our egos dissolve into this absolute “truth” if even for an instant, and understand on a higher level? It reminds me of a prior observation that the result of love-making, the orgasm, is a metaphor for knowing God or the Absolute. Perhaps loving the mountain is an orgasm, perhaps it is a complete abandonment of the mind just for an instant to reach a greater mind. Is that magic? Answering that question would involve a treatise on magic, but it seems adequate to say that this mountain here has some power, either through its authentic beauty, renown, or massive magnetism that has kept it as a place of worship for a thousand years.

In the words of Pablo Soler Frost who has studied and written about Tepoztlan extensively, “the mountains are elevated six hundred meters to an altitude of 2,100 meters above sea level on the Pacific coast. From these peaks one sees most of the State of Morelos and part of the States of Mexico and Geurrero…On clear days it is possible to see the two stone heroes (volcanoes) from the tragic history of central Mexico, Iztaccihuatl and Popocateptl, and from the other side the sad smog of Cuernavaca. ..Allow me to say that I believe that whoever contemplates Tepoztlan feels amazed at the height, extension, and amplitude, even the intricacies of the mountains, although I know people who are exhausted or suffocated, because they feel that they (the mountains) will fall upon them. This enchantment is not unusual nor is the true fear that is felt. Mountains have always inspired sacred respect if not horror and terror for men of any culture…The peaks hide extraordinary powers. There the Creator quietly waits for many things. Tepozteco Mountain..does not escape from this universal marvel.” (My translation from Spanish.) Poler goes on to comment on Mount Shasta, Mount Fiji, and Mount T’aishan in China as mountains that are considered living gods, that frighten and inspire.

Returning to the question of the mountain and the effect that it has on locals and visitors, there seems little doubt that to climb up a peak, leaving behind everyday life and entering into a world of natural wonder, using only the strength of one’s own two feet, can be a transformative. Then to rest, at ease, within the power and magnetism of an enormous hunk of rock can be both humbling and cleansing. You might compare it to doing yoga. Any ego or separation anxiety is long gone. You are embraced by the mountain, body and spirit.

Similarly the people who live in the village below the mountain (that is a god to them) are a part of this energy. They must identify to a degree with the appearance of the huge thing surrounding them. In the dry season, it turns brown and dusty; in the rainy season, it becomes gloriously crisp and green; in between, it’s in between. This is much like our daily lives, except that many of us identify more with the stock market or economy these days, the western world’s excuse for a mountain.
Perhaps the “high” that one gets with the mountain, almost any mountain, magic or otherwise, is simply our recognition of spiritual truth. All other conflicts and judgments are pushed aside and we sense it. I think I’ll call it mountain mentality and I’ll carry it around in an easy-to-access part of my mind. It’s my spiritual internet and my heart is my search engine.
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Please respond to these questions. Doing so will help me complete my book

    Making Love with God

. Muchas gracias, Marie

Questions: Does the powerful human response to a mountain or place of great natural beauty emanate from the mind or the heart? Does magic exist? How have you experienced magic in your life?

The Agave

There is a large agave in front of my Marfa house. I planted it five years ago, and it has flourished until recently. This area has been hit by an extremely cold winter, followed by a drought. As a result, the lovely plant which had produced dozens of offspring, has been decimated and reduced to a raggedy gray-green burst of daggers, surrounded by the detritus of its young.
Today, I undertook the project of pulling out the dead, prickly, blade-like leaves. Wearing long, denim garments, using variously an ax, pruning shears, and shear force, I was able to remove some of the discolored, brown and gray, withered parts. These were curiously lovely, as a corpse which presents more dignity in death than in life. Before I had finished, I had filled the back of my pick-up with body parts. Much of the damage is still visible as it is difficult to cut the withered sections from a living leaf. So the damages remain in a curiously striking way, much like the lines in the face of an old person whose years attest to something, something we can’t know.
Then I began to identify with the plant. Certainly I have the wrinkles to show for the droughts and freezes of my life. Many of my personal projects have withered, needing to be cut back and discarded, or sold, or packed away. Furthermore I have had the rare, tragic experience of losing a child at an early age. He was “packed away” in a favorite shirt with a favorite toy. That was the most difficult winter of my life with permanent damage.
Though nothing begins to compare with the loss of my son, many of the assorted enterprises that I have begun throughout my sixty plus years have had limited growth. Much like the agave out front here, some have grown to significant size, enough to sustain or engage me for years. Many others have popped up energetically, looking good, only to be hit by some cycle of events, hopelessly defeated.
A rather major “sprout” for me was a somewhat successful gallery-studio in another small Texas town. The business was doing well until a Wal-Mart opened on the highway, forever reducing the retail sales on Main Street. Many stores had to close their doors. There was a small, vigorous grocery store, a great family-owned hardware shop, a music and book store, and so forth. Within a year, they were all closed. I struggled on, trying to diversify and use clever methods to get people back in, having lost much traffic and visibility. Finally I gave up and organized an artist’s cooperative which functioned for a while, on hope and sheer bullheadedness.
I could continue with the litany of ideas and skills that I have tried to grow, but I’ll return to the agave. She is still here, still possesses a certain nobility. She will throw up more babies soon, now that we have a bit more rain. Eventually, in a few years, she will die. But before she dies, she will send up an enormous stalk, the thickness of my calf. The stalk will support an intricate display of flowers mounted on beautiful curved branches, placed with perfect symmetry. For days and weeks, people will drive by and comment on the beauty of the flowers. This will be her swan song, her last earthly effort to follow her destiny. Once the blossoms have withered the agave will follow. Soon thereafter she will become a large and amazing relic, and I will have a much larger job and need a bigger truck.
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Please answer the following questions. To do so will help me with the publication of my book Making Love with God. Mil gracias, Marie

Questions: How do you relate to your aging process? Male? Female? Over or under fifty? In general, how are “the elderly” perceived of in the USA? By you?

(This is a really long piece, chronicling ideas and events over the past five weeks of my life. Please read it in parts if it seems too long.)
May 23, 2011
I’m writing this on top of the mountain. This knoll is called Cerro de Luz, or hill of light, near San Juan Pueblo. It is the highest point in the Tepozteco Mountains, about 7,000 feet. This is probably the last hike I will take with my friend Laura as I am leaving in a few days for the US. Of course, I plan to return, regularly, but one never knows.
The wind moves across us as we rest on heavy log benches placed, miraculously, at this high point. It’s a one hour hike from the pueblo below. It’s also possible take a bus from town, then hike down, or, actually, walk up and down, up and down. We have finally arrived at the peak, snacked, rested, taken photos, and read a poem by Rumi. I calculate that Laura and I have taken about one hundred hikes since I arrived in Tepoztlan over a year ago. I am feeling quite sad to think about separation from my friend and hiking buddy. Today I acknowledge all the learning and growing we have done together; we have formed a close friendship.
On the way up, we discussed ones sense of self, or ego. It seems that a healthy sense of self is required to function well in society, to take care of ones needs; but childhood disturbances and conflicts can alter natural growth and development, leaving an ego conflicted and defensive. We can develop what Joko Beck calls a Core Belief that we are inadequate. On our walk, Laura and I concurred that this is part of what the Buddha called Dukha or suffering and that we all experience it, the First Noble Truth.
The dialogs between Laura and me are the main reason that we decided to write a book, entitled either Having Sex with God or Making Love with God; it’s a toss up. So much has become clear to me through these discussions. Laura and I are so different; she, wordy and academic. I am older, more grounded, and less analytical. All the thought and exploration that she and I have placed in our magical, crystal ball of walks has taken on color and energy, leading me to regard my own responses, revelations, and denials with greater enthusiasm. Not since my college years have I been so engaged in the intricacies and meaning of my own life and experiences, nor have I had sufficient time to engage in such.
Beetles and Peaks
From this peak, there is a very clear view of both San Juan Pueblo and Tepoztlan. Through my binoculars, I can actually see my house and the horrible construction project going on next door. The valleys are filled with mist today, and I can’t see the closest city, Cuernavaca. We’re at 7000 feet here, 1000 feet above Tepoztlan. We sit amongst conifers and madrones which are occupied by thousands of small black beetles with orange grid patterns on their shiny backs. They are crammed together like so many black beans, totally immobile. They were here in December when last I came. I don’t know when I will come again. I will have to ask for a report on the Grid-backed Black Beetle on the Cerro de Luz. Do they ever leave? What do they eat?
Soon I will be gone, heading back to Texas, friends, and family. What degree of shock should I anticipate upon my return to the US of A? What will be the biggest one? Beauty or the lack thereof will permeate the experience. It will color all of the changes and each change will be viewed in reference to the beauty of the mountains and town of Tepoztlan; but there will be many more. What will strike me as I walk through the paths of my US life?
Packaging
Packaging will be a big one. No, really! You know the replacement batteries you buy at places like BestBuy that are so thoroughly and mysteriously wrapped that it necessitates a pair of really strong scissors (or a machete) to open them? This is such an inconvenience, I’m surprised that there is not a fellow with cutting tools waiting outside each electronics store to open packages, charging $1 to $3, depending, to extract the purchase. In Mexico he would be there.
Here, in Tepoztlan, Morelos packaging is pretty organic and most of what one buys is edible. Your average pedestrian is carrying a bag, either a colorful market bag, or a sedate worker’s daypack, or a backpack in which to place purchases, which are often eatable. Fruit comes pre-packaged in its peel. One buys the fruit then simply peels off the packaging. Obviously bananas, oranges, tangerines can be un-packaged instantly. Guayabas, papayas, mameys, mangos, and chirimoyas are best un-packaged at home over the sink or kitchen counter. Often you can simply eat nature’s tricky packaging, originally designed to keep out critters and germs, not humans. Vegetables follow the same general concept. For me and other foreigners here, we have the added task of soaking the produce in disinfectant drops in most cases.
If one eats in the public market, you actually eat the “plate” or the “bowl” which is shaped from masa. The entire world is familiar with the clever tortilla, but there are also sopes and huaraches. These are like bowls in that the masa has been pinched up at the side to contain the ingredients which might include grilled mushrooms, seasoned shredded chicken, squash blossoms, cheese, salchicha, huazontle, chapulines, and so forth. The latter three are, respectively, a type of sausage, a nutty legume type vegetable, and roasted grasshoppers. When one orders a sope or huarache at a stand in the market, one selects from the six or seven bowls, placed on a counter. The cook then shapes the masa into a tortilla, sope, or huarache and cooks it on a really hot, huge, circular griddle. (You may, if you have worn Mexican sandals, think that a huarache is a shoe. It is that and also a shoe shaped taco.) The fillings are cooked or heated to a high temperature and added to the edible plate or bowl. You receive your order on a piece of paper with a napkin. You eat. The only waste is the paper and the napkin. You must eat the whole thing as there is nothing upon which to put anything left. Too bad you can’t eat the napkin.
One of my favorite types of “packaging” is the large corn shuck upon which corn pie is served when purchased at a local stand. This particular “pie” is more like a firm corn pudding, fairly sweet, and made from a finely ground local corn, with egg and sugar added; it’s similar to quiche, but sweet. The consumer can walk down the street, eating off the corn leaf.
Of course, there is ample packaging of regular “western” products in Mexico. One does find more and more plastic here. It’s still easier to buy soft drinks, beer, and water in returnable bottles; but, increasingly, one sees plastic. In the market, one buys produce in little bags although people frequently use their own bags. Fortunately, in Tepoz, there is a recycling system. On trash day, one separates glass, plastic and cardboard. Pickup is free. Domestic waste is small as there is so little packaging! My domestic trash is mostly items that can’t go into the compost or recycle, which isn’t much. Since it’s not practical to put toilet paper in the toilet, it too goes into the domestic trash, in tight little bags. When I return to the States, it will take me a few days to get used to putting toilet paper in the, well, toilet. (I will also have to adjust to brushing my teeth with water from the tap and to rinsing produce in the sink.)
One thing that I definitely will not miss in the USA is the large quantity of trash found almost everywhere. Governmental bodies do not provide many trash receptacles. If you generate trash you either carry it with you to your house or you throw it on the ground. It has been difficult for me to accept this. Recently I visited a lovely town called Valle del Bravo and was incredibly relieved to find little trash on the streets. The town is really lovely. It is also a “Magic Pueblo” like Tepoztlan.
Pedestrians
Another thing that I will really miss is seeing people walking everywhere, even though Tepoztecos (locals) walk much too slowly for me, forcing me to turn the act of walking into a form of meditation. The narrow, bumpy sidewalks are filled with women carrying bags or market products, or with a child or two in hand. Then there are teenagers who slouch forward with their baggie (boys) or really tight (girls) pants. School kids travel in coveys, with matching plumage (uniforms). No one rushes, even early in the day when they are presumably heading for work or to catch a bus; and you virtually never see an empty street here; everyone’s on the move.
If I am behind a total bottleneck of pedestrians (mom, two kids, and grandmother, all carrying bags), I will bump through. Bumping is totally acceptable. No need to say “Excuse me,” although it’s fine to do so. Some of my “regulars” will greet me on the street; some don’t. No rules about this. One of my favorite neighbors runs a small craft shop; she’s seventy-eight and has never missed a day of work. One evening as I was rushing home in a huge rain storm; I had an inadequate umbrella so I popped into her shop. She said, “Isn’t it a shame we can’t just take all our clothes off and run around in this? The temperature is perfect!” Seventy-eight, going on twelve.
I have been walking up to thirty miles a week; this includes the miles (kilometers) I walk to school twice a day and the miles logged when I hike up and down the mountain. In my lovely Marfa hometown, I frequently rode my bike which is almost impossible here. The cobblestones are the size of watermelons. There are almost no bicyclists.
Public transport
There are countless public buses and Combis here, the latter being a type of van that picks you up and drops you off along a specific route, with an every-man-for-himself pace. Combis are simple and fairly cheap although not cheap enough for some of the people with whom I share the benches provided for passengers in the Combis, some of whom are really poor and dirty, as is their clothing. Obviously, one can get really “up-front and personal” in a Comb. The most frightening sight is usually the condition of people’s feet. Not everyone has running water here; it can be difficult to stay clean. One can learn a great deal by sharing a tight space with people, sometimes more than you want to know.
It has been easy to get along without a car here. With patience, you can get anywhere. Sometimes it’s necessary to change transports. Generally, things run according to schedule here although the subtilties in schedules can really mess up ones plans. (Some buses don’t run at all on weekends, for example, and a person can wait a really long time for a bus that won’t run that day.)
West Texas Transports
In the US, I live in the Big Bend region of west Texas. My transportation experience there has been compounded by the vast distance between my little town of Marfa, and the cities of Houston and Austin, where most of my favorite beings reside. If there were an interesting workshop in Austin, I had to drive seven hours to get there…and back. If I wanted to go to, say, Oregon, I had little choice. I would have to drive the three hours to El Paso, leave my truck in storage, fly out, fly back, then drive three more hours, usually after dark. So the question of public transport has arisen in my mind regularly. (Later, July 10. I have been told that there is now a public transport that carries people to El Paso at specific times if one signs up for it. This is thanks to a stalwart Marfa citizen who has fought for this. I’m pleased and grateful to Bob.)
The real down side to driving back and forth to the El Paso airport is the huge nothingness of the Chihuahuan Desert and traveling on a totally isolated road in complete darkness. Seriously, there is almost NOTHING between Marfa and Van Horn, Texas (except Valentine which is only the blink of an eye). One night, I saw an elk! There was an enormous dark shadow on the road ahead; it moved off to the side where I could barely see a large white structure glowing in the dark several feet above the ground. I just kept going, I drank more coffee.
Travel by bus is virtually impossible in the USA. It’s inadequate, overpriced, and underutilized. From Marfa, if I can get a friend to carry me to Fort Stockton (two hours) I can take a bus to San Marcos, where another friend could pick me up. Trying to go directly from Marfa to Austin or Houston is a challenge beyond me. Thus bus travel is not an option. I will really miss the public transportation system and am even considering replacing my trusty though aging truck. I will also enjoy getting back on a bike.
Possessions
Back in Marfa, my house, kitchen, and surroundings will be radically different. It will require a real act of faith to begin to unload the life that I so carefully packed away in my Marfa garage last year before I left. Even thought I had several yard sales at that time and gave many things away before my departure for Mexico, I still left most of a garage bay full of books, pots, pans, memorabilia, pottery equipment, tools, paint cans, clothes and more clothes, artwork, and God knows what. Oh! And my cat, Deditos, who has also been occupying the garage in my absence, through the kindness and care of my renters. The last time I visited with Deditos, he was so pissed at me that he actually swatted at me, once he recognized me. Then I left him again. He may never forgive me.
My current residence in Tepoz is on a reasonably quiet street in this outrageously noisy town. It is a really cute, small two-story duplex with orange walls and a winding staircase. I rented it with two beds, three small tables, and three chairs. I have bummed, borrowed, or stolen most items essential to cooking, eating, and bathing: four forks, spoons, knives, plates, mugs, a few towels and so forth. When I look around me and ponder the approximately $100 I have invested in my furnishings, and; then, I ponder unloading my belongings back home, I feel this tremendous lethargy. As Thoreau said, “I make myself rich by making my needs few.” Thirteen boxes of books! Will I read them again?
It has been incredibly liberating to leave the busyness of my US life. I have no mail box in Tepoztlan. I pay only my apartment rent and buy bottles of propane when I’m out. I buy minutes for my cell phone when it’s out. It is so simple. No packaging. You buy it; you eat it. I’m totally serious about this. How much time do we spend tending to items in our cluttered lives that sounded great when you signed on but that has become burdens? How do you get rid of junk mail? Can anyone get by without a calendar and a filing system and a lawyer and an accountant and a physical therapist, and on and on?
So why return to the US and how to find beauty? I will return with beauty, to create beauty, to see the beauty in all my surroundings, even the currently devastated Big Bend region of Texas that has been hit by huge wildfires. I long to see the beauty in the faces of my friends and family, to catch up on their stories which are beautiful, or sad, or brave, or disappointing; but, important. Is it possible for me to transport the beauty which I have absorbed here in the past year back to my old haunts. Can I be pregnant with such joy that everyone gets it, at least a bit of it, and that I might keep it? Time will tell.
The Return, June 1
I have been in the USA for three days. It has been odd. Of course, seeing my friends and family has been meaningful. Stepping back into their lives, changes, and recent events has demanded my attention. I have not done my usual yoga and meditation for these days. I have not written anything until this moment. I have not had the kind of soul-searching dialogs that Laura and I slip into. However, I did touch base with my younger son and was happy to share some good, encouraging observations between us. Spending time with my “boys” was one of my major reasons to return at this point.
Jacob
My older son performed at an Austin club last night, attracting a large and unusual assortment of friends and relatives, many of whom I had not seen for many years. That experience alone was significant in the time travel I accomplished in three hours. I saw many members of the family of my ex-husband, father of my sons, most of whom I had not seen for over twenty year; it was like a fast-forward type police projection, you know the ones they construct for lost children. “This is what this person might look like today.” It was alternately touching, confusing, and uncomfortable. Some had aged well. I knew that several had had serious illnesses. I was genuinely glad to see most of them. I consider this evidence of a major benefit of growing older, accepting others. Also, there was the common thread, our love for my son, Jacob, who was performing; that was touching.
In Tepoztlan, I was constantly meeting and getting to know new people. In Texas, I am re-visiting places and faces. There is a greater quality of confusion in spending time with my old acquaintances. Once I have caught up with what they are doing, which is usually what they were doing when I last spoke with them, I feel that I have moved on, literally and figuratively. In some instances this means that I can’t relate to or even like what they are currently doing with their lives. Ironically, my failure to connect is based on my failure to connect to much of anything in the workaday world. My desire to learn a “greater truth,” to live at a higher level of personal reflection, makes the activities and pursuits of others seem almost crass. I have fought this conclusion, telling myself that people are entitled to the pursuit of happiness even when it seems without great benefit, except in the form of “happiness.”
In other words, I have become a spiritual seeker. It seems to be my priority to the extent that my previous drives for happiness, accomplishments at work, social recognition seem almost alien. I recognize them, they seem familiar, but they are no longer driving forces, at least not at this moment.
Sky Farm
June 1, 2011
Here at my family farm in central Texas, I got up early, grabbed my binoculars and headed out to the island to look for birds. Nothing noteworthy. Then I climbed up to the fifth floor of the house, the crow’s nest to study the sun’s position upon the horizon. (My sister and I had had a small argument about the sun’s points of arrival and departure each day and the position of the house. Basically, we need a compass, GPS, something clever.) Actually what I am looking for is “God.” I need to tap into some sense of oneness or awe or engagement with my surroundings, above and beyond today’s list of activities.
Our first farm job today will be to go grab the really old hay out of an abandoned barn, the hay will be more mulch for the garden. As we are in a serious drought here, mulch is critical to keeping anything in the vegetable world alive. My sister Jody is on the porch reading, drinking coffee; my son Jordan is waking up in the next room; these are two of the people I love most; this is definitely a moment with God. But what of the awe, the bliss that I sense in Tepoztlan, in the mountains, hiking, contemplating? If I do not feel it here in east central Texas, is it a lack of beauty, or is there actually some inherent magic in Tepoz, not available in the rolling farmland of Texas?
Magic Currents
Where does magic come from? Is it like electricity in which a circuit must be completed for a current to occur? And must the circuit be completed by the conduit, in this case me? In other words, am I responsible for sensing the magic (read “bliss,” “awareness,” “boddhichitta,”) in each moment? Certainly, as I look out the window, scanning the small lake and large ruffle of trees, I could see a mighty presence, I could tune into it, powerfully. As I gaze at my son’s face across the table and remember that he never talks in the early morning, should I feel awe at the sheer magnitude of his humanity? Yes, yes, and yes.
No doubt it is easier to become absorbed into the moment, to become mindful, in some situations than others, but, basically, an enlightened being would never depart a state of attunement and would see beauty and joy and ugliness and pain in all things, with steady intensity. Is this my goal, to experience joy with each step? In order to do this must I seek other “joy seekers,” must I dwell within a Sangha or like-minded souls? (Sort of like driving a spiritual Jaguar: low, smooth, quiet.)
Joy Juice
If the three jewels are Buddha, dharma, sangha, must I have all three to maintain the joy that I have been enjoying in Tepoztlan over the past year? Perhaps. My conversations with my co-writer Laura, on an almost daily basis, have launched me into my writing discipline which compels me to examine and adjust my ideas. It is frightening to think that I might slip right back into my historically workaholic approach to life as I attempt to structure my life and certain financial exigencies. Once my mind slips into its “list” mode, thoughts move fast and shallow. The question is whether I can be in the list mode and still connect to the “love” mode¸ which keeps me in touch with some sense of AWE and ALL with special little attention boosters charging my heart.
I have no ambition these days other than my search for “God” and joy and a better sense of how my search works. Can I develop better tools for my search by sitting at the feet of a teacher? Can I find teachers in my everyday life if I simply pay attention? Or must I be with other joy-seekers on a similar path to really benefit? I am about to head back to West Texas, the land of ranchers and rattlesnakes. Is God a rattlesnake? What will my spiritual binoculars be there? My introspective ultrasound?
My practice now, to be on the/my path, to build and recognize basic goodness in life will continue to be fueled by my meditation. It seems to be the spiritual food that feeds my heart and soul. What are the other factors? Will I find them?
June 13, 2011
This essay is about the transition from my state of being in Tepoztlan to, apparently, my state of doing in the US. I have been doing a lot here over the past few days and being, much less. If one takes off to Mexico for a period of fifteen months, apparently one should expect to work ones butt off upon the return. That is what I have been doing: cleaning up two rent houses, doing a years’ worth of banking, bookkeeping and bill paying, beginning to finalize last years’ taxes related to the above stuff. I spent about three hours going over my mail yesterday and that was just to weed things out.
It’s no wonder that I can’t find the magic here; I am in work mode. To stay blissed out while I organize cash tickets and make entries in a ledger is asking a lot. “Oh, how marvelous, another bottom line.” BUT, if when I take a break from the tally, I seek a bit of bliss, notice what’s around me, I might just get through it easier and with a certain calm if not bliss. I’m optomistic. I will be working really hard for at least two weeks. As of tomorrow I can slow down a bit but many chores await me. Everything that I put off while in Tepoz is at my front door, wagging its tail and barking. “Down boy!”
Actually, I feel pretty good, being back in “production,” earning my keep. It was odd in Tepoz to be working for others and way below my level of expertise. I have returned to do something that I’m good at, for now.
June 23
I have become OCD (obsessive-compulsive). I am spending so much time scraping-and-painting that I just want it to be over. Ironically and perhaps perversely, I can only think of renting the place once I get it well-fixed. In order to move in my personal belongings: sofa, rugs, cooking supplies, I should first clean out the garage which is filthy. I will have to borrow Laura’s shop vac to clean out the dust and cat hairs. Furthermore it’s pretty much one step forward, one step back. Yesterday someone tried to repair the stove’s oven elements but had to look for a part. I had broken the lower element while cleaning up the half inch of food residue left by the previous renters. It will no doubt cost $75 to get it going again.
Now I’m in the Paisano Hotel, using the wireless. I used to work here, briefly, in the gift shop. I was not very comfy here, not sure why. (That’s probably because I was selling things that I wouldn’t buy although I sold a lot of them to people passing through.)
So this morning I am frankly depressed. I have this tremendous feeling of not “fitting in” which has accompanied my entire life. Most people consider this a really cool, interesting town; it is. However, I have little use for most of what goes on here and vice versa. Odd. What about my vow upon leaving Tepoz to be happy wherever I am and to maintain the level of joy and tranquility I before? I’d better just do that. In my previous life I would have taken the time to reflect upon this. Now, I have the chance to go to a yoga class. I’ll go. Ponder later.
Later on
The class was good; Ashtanga, not my favorite, but still yoga. Now I’m drinking tea and watching the house across the street where a woman is washing the windows. The young family from Houston that bought the house a couple of years ago (supposedly for over $600,000) is seldom there. I saw them three times while I was living here before taking off for Mexico for a year. The window washer is slim, wearing a huge straw hat and working vigorously. She has on a rather stylish shirt (blouse?) and gloves. In a moment I’ll go introduce myself just out of curiousity. I’d venture that she’s a refugee from some city, highly educated and in the window washing business to bring in some money in this odd town where sixty year old native Mexican-Americans and PhD’s wash windows to bring in some money.
I noticed another friend, a refugee from the dry cliffs of Nevada and the Colorado River Gorge, doing yard work; later, I saw him at the desk of a local hotel. A couple of years ago, my son and I painted the newly remodeled interior of the bank president’s house. He could not find “dependable help,” and I know how to paint, and I am dependable. (It was pretty cool, actually, working with my son for a month.) How is the woman washing windows, as I type, different from the scores of people I observed In Tepoz doing manual labor? How are my son and I different? Maybe not much. To what extent are we all just getting by, trying to avoid discomfort and pay the bills, feed the family and dogs?
What am I doing, “doing” being the operable word? Getting by? No, I’ve never been content to just get by and I’ve seldom been content. It’s not that I have a bad attitude; I don’t. I just have to keeping moving and searching. Is this anxiety-based behavior, based on some long-seated sense of fear that I won’t get by, even when I’m getting by? Hmmmm.
Wrong
I talked with the PhD. Actually her name is Rosa and , as far as I know, she’s not a PhD. She’s from Mexico and speaks little English. Her “stylish” blouse was a faded cowboy shirt (which in Marfa might be considered “stylish”). So much for my judgments about folks. That’s what I get for judging. Nonetheless, I hold to my observation that a lot of over-educated people are doing under-educated jobs to get by in this wunderland.
To Do or Not to Do, That Is the Question
I have finally gotten around to the long-postponed task of cleaning out the garage/studio/storage space/cat hotel. It is the worst mess in the rental house clean-up scenario, and I saved it to last, even though many necessary belongings, such as towels, are stored in there. It sometimes takes courage and a shop vac to dig into ones past.
Fortunately, I found the box of towels and bathroom accutrements. In my bathroom in Tepoz I had so little: two towels, a straw mat on the floor, and a limited selection of vanity and personal hygiene products. As I unloaded my Marfa box labeled “bathroom,” I wondered why I need six large towel, four small ones and several face cloths. There’s only one of me. Then I started unloading the odds-and-ends: assorted vitamins including one for post-menopause (Don’t need that one anymore. I need one for post-post-menopause.) Then there were all kinds of things for my face: creams, scrubbers, and things to color my face and the hairs around my eyes. Then I found my trusty rabbit; its batteries are still good. There were various liquids for stomach ailments which I really needed in Mexico but don’t remember using here and many, many respiratory aids such as decongestants, inhalers and even the old hand-made neti pot. HOW DID I EVER GET BY WITHOUT THESE THINGS? Especially the rabbit and the neti pot.
Now I shall return to the den of cat hair dust and memories to see what else I can unearth. I’d really like to find my every day dishes. I desperately need a bowl as my stove is still broken, and I have to eat a lot of items from the microwave. Items prepared in a microwave frequently end up in bowls, in my recent experience. This not having access to many personal items has been rather like being in Tepoztlan; you just work around it. A mug makes a pretty good bowl for most purposes; and I do have a couple of mugs that showed up early in the excavation. Back to the shop to vac!
To See Oneself as Others
Last night was entertaining and intriguing. I went to the poetry reading at Marfa Book Co. Allison Hedge Coke is an amazing poet, writer, story teller, and person in general. She seems so genuine while totally phenomenal it’s almost confusing. How can this astonishing person still be just a “regular guy?” I bought her memoirs, hoping to learn how that is.
Many familiar Marfa faces were there. I went alone, of course; and I don’t like going places ALONE. (I guess I will never recover from being solitary, as if walking around with another person is the only norm.) While experiencing this vague sense of isolation, while being told that a seat was saved for someone else, while deciding where to simply plot down, I noticed that it was OK. Maybe I like the freedom to sit wherever I want. As it turned out I sat next to an artist who teaches in Burma most of the year and only comes here for a couple of months. We had a quite interesting conversation. If I had sat with first choice of acquaintances, I wouldn’t have spoken with Grace.
The reason that I feel a sense of isolation here is that I identify with the people around me sufficiently to view myself through their eyes which are, culturally speaking, my eyes. I too am educated, have a creative trade, and get excited about apparently important people and projects in the community. I also wish financial and social success and recognition for myself and my friends and family. These are things that I share closely with many of my Marfa peers. Therefore, when I am around them, I judge them and myself by theses common variables. Of course, they may be judging me too but it’s more likely that they are fixated on themselves or someone closer to celebrity with whom they can identify as I have been attempting to identify with them.
All of this leaves me confused because I just spent a year around people and a community with which I had much less in common. I did not judge myself through their eyes because we have different standards of excellence. As an over-sixty North American, I was practically invisible to them although my Spanish-speaking ability and my friendliness brought me much good cheer. There was no judgment between us. I couldn’t bounce my judgment off their judgment. It felt fabulous.
What is at the bottom of all this judgment? A sense of separateness. Ironically, although I identify more with my now locals, I feel more separate because of some separation anxiety, an emotional residue from childhood, that brings fear and self-doubt. A lingering low self-esteem tells me that I “will not be chosen,” cannot pass muster. After over ten years of Buddhist practice and meditation I have gained a great sense of humor about this human silliness. I know that my self-judgment is just a reaction to my anxiety and that, occasionally and under similar circumstances, I can feel on top to the world. In other words these judgments are meaningless, not based on any authentic human calibration of my worth and character.
After the wonderful poetry reading, I bummed a smoke off a young woman I like but don’t know well. We had a great conversation in which she demonstrated interest in my situation. (Are you planning to stay? How’s your house?) Her genuine humanity came through so strongly that I lost any sense of anxiety within moments.
We Are All Bozos on This Bus
Most people then went over to the open house for the poet at the Lannon House. Crista and Adam Bork always prepare the most amazing food imaginable. She is truly a food genius. Furthermore, as I have had few opportunities to eat well in the past month, it was a great gift to stand before the large table spread with a variety of interesting and delicious treats. I began to feel a greater and greater sense of inclusion. Suddenly there was a chair available to me next to people with whom I feel comfortable. It would have been virtually impossible to feel separate as we ate and chatted over common themes. How was that moment different from an hour earlier when I had felt inadequate and ALONE? Maybe I have it, or at least a part of it: I still have a vestigial desire to be in partnership with a man. Perhaps my “advancing” age colors this sense of inappropriateness, that women of my age should be “married.” But that too is a judgment. Indeed, most of my associates here ARE married or partnered up, but maybe that’s their “problem” with all the convoluted compromises and stumbling blocks concomitant with marriage. I have absolutely no one to determine what, who, how, where, when, why I am. That’s huge. I was married, twice, twenty-six years, total. I didn’t do that well. I’ll just embrace my solitary self; I get along much better with me than previously.
Don’t Kick Yourself, It Hurts
One of the lessons of a Buddhist practice is to observe the feelings that come up as a result of our conditioning, to watch our “knee-jerk” reactions. I had a lesson only hours ago. One of my sons called to say that he would not be coming to visit me next weekend as planned. I was extremely sad. Apparently his father, my Ex, is having surgery and will be hospitalized for a week. My son feels compelled to visit with his dad, rightfully so. My initial (unstated) emotion was something like, “Gee, you’re going to spend time with a man who did very little for you or me, abandoning me.” That was my gut reaction. Fortunately I didn’t sat this. Later, I was able to simply acknowledge the joy that I had felt about the prospect of spending time with my son and move on to feeling good that he is a good son. Of course, he should spend time with his dad. I’m still sad about this small loss, but it is one of millions of similar feelings that I have had in my life. It’s genuine, but it’s only the flip side of the joy I felt previously which was equally valid and, in a way, the same thing.
July 1, 2011
I woke up thinking for all the things to do. It is daunting. Finish painting and scrubbing back bath. Prune trees with electric chain saw (if I can figure out how to do it). Water the house and shrubs. Take brush to the dump and pick up free mulch if there is any. Begin to paint back bedroom. Then I thought, “What does this list have to do with having a “precious human birth” in the words of the great Tibetan teacher Chogyam Trungpa Rinpoche? What is the benefit of waking up and hitting the list? Do I really have to do any of this stuff? If I just sell the house, I can probably get enough to live on for ten years!!! So why caulk the bathroom sink?
During this very day, what will I do that has any value to anyone? That brings greater clarity, peace, justice, a better life for all of us and our mother Earth? I’m not sure that caulking will do it. Still perhaps I will have a conversation, or read or do something that will impact my future and that of others. We’ll see how it goes today. Long term questions…I almost can’t think about my plans for my future. All I can do is to keep working, follow the list.
Taxes in Texas
Now, I have to do my taxes for 2010. When I re-approach my tasks, daily, I ask, “To what end?”, then I resume the task assuming that all will become clear eventually. I have spent the past two days organizing and entering data for my 2010 tax return, the one that I have extended until next month. That process was a real heads-up as I was forced to realize how disorganized I am, how little attention I place on the numbers from my rental properties which are my “business,”and, incidentally, the way I earn a living now. For years, I have just glided along, hoping that my renters pay on time and destroy as little as possible. This year I have had problems with families in two of my houses. I am paying the price literally and figuratively. If I had been here and not in Mexico, I might have been more aware, but maybe not, since it has been my practice to assume the best in the past. At any rate, I am now working my butt off to get back on track and, according to the figures I looked at yesterday, I am paying a pretty good price.
Ironically, it just makes me want to return to Mexico where life is simple and turn my properties over to my rental manager. She does a decent job and is honest. The good news is that the two damaged houses will be top-notch soon. Hopefully, they will stay that way.
Multi-tasking and Weight Reduction
Many people have asked me how I manage to stay so thin. I attribute it to my Marie-Blazek-Work-Your-Butt-Off Weight Reduction Plan. Yesterday was an incredibly intense day. When I awoke this morning at 4am, I still felt the residue of yesterday’s labors: I was still checking the list. I couldn’t return to sleep so I got out of bed. Daily, I have the same morning routine; I drink coffee, eat toast; meditate briefly; and do a bit of yoga. Frequently I simply sit staring out the window as I wake up slowly to the day. Here, in Marfa, this is an intense joy as I have a beautiful view of the courthouse and surrounding crepe myrtle trees, all of which are sporting bright blossoms now. This morning I stared at the darkness, missing my dreams.
In Tepoz, I had a similar schedule, the difference being that I would return to bed with my coffee and stare out at the mountains and tall tree outside my large windows at the foot of my bed. There I would generally dress and walk to work to teach a couple of classes. Here I get up and continue the repairs to my house.
Multi-tasking Marathon
Yesterday was a marathon of multi-tasking. I began my work day by continuing to paint the trim in the small back bedroom. It was fairly tedious; but, fortunately, I had a book on tape to entertain me. I was awaiting a call from an air conditioner repair service that was to look at my AC in Alpine at my “big” house. I had another call in to get an estimate on replacing the mechanics of central air in the Marfa house; it is quite old. I also had a call in to the tenant at my small house in Alpine. The washer there was on the blink, and I had found a better one; he was to help me move it. There was also the issue of his front door lock which his wife can’t seem to use easily for some odd reason. Oh, and the evaporative cooler switch was bad.
With all of this on my agenda, I waited for the call from the AC people, finally just going, driving the 25 miles to Alpine with a few tools, a bit of paint to touch up the bathroom trim in the big house bathroom, a ramp to move the washer from one place to another, a file folder and tape and scissors to create a temporary fix on a closet door at the big house, and so forth. Of course, I had made a list of such things over a couple of days. Driving 25 miles to run an errand is common out here in this under-populated region, but I am inclined to use my time as efficiently as possible when working so I multi-task to a ridiculous degree.
Arriving in Alpine, I went by the hardware store to buy caulk and other supplies. (I describe myself as the “queen of caulk.”) Then I went by my friend Greg’s house to borrow his super-duper hand truck which makes moving big things a breeze, with its straps and extra parallel wheels. We visited briefly, talked about his upcoming cruise trip from Vancouver to Alaska.Meanwhile, I was still waiting for a call from the AC people.
Manana Means Not Today
As regards repair people, contractors, and other relatively skilled workers, this area resembles Mexico. Around here people say, “Manana means not today.” In other words, I’ll do it eventually if something better doesn’t come up first. It is difficult to ascertain when the pre-determined service will actually occur or if it will occur. It is common for workers to simply not show up, or to call saying that they couldn’t arrive at the specified time but that they would be there asap. That is one reason why I have tried to learn to do as many things as possible for myself.
Yesterday, the AC man did arrive, did thoroughly check the old AC system; he proclaimed it good, and charged me a reasonable fee. Victory!!! As I will soon have three new residents in the house, I am covering my assets. A new central system will cost over $6000; I don’t have that right now.
While he worked, I re-balanced a ceiling fan there that produced a nice reggae rhythm. It was unlikely that the new tenants would want reggae, maybe country-western. I also caulked the trim at the base of the tub; I didn’t have a good scraper with me so I had to use a screwdriver to clean it up. That worked out OK. The “big” house is quite good now, needs only a bit more paint on the tub trim. I’ll do that soon.
I left the big house and met Raul, the tenant from the small house, at the place where we were to pick up the new-used washer, a Kenmore that promises to perform for several more decades. We loaded and unloaded the washer. I examined the broken switch on the evaporative cooler. Yep! Broke! Raul helped me dismantle the switch box; I went back to the hardware store, and Eureka! They had the switch. I also bought a couple things that I had forgotten earlier for the Marfa house.
We were able to replace the switch, but it has a short in it, explaining why it had burned out. Today, I will go back, replace the fiber bats that are a part of the evaporative system (that the tenants had neglected and allowed to congeal with wet salts). I will see if I can find the source of the short on the actual fan motor. I will be “out of my league” as I don’t do electrical very well, but it’s always worth a try before calling a pricey electrical guy. Electricians can be very vain about their work.
I commiserated a bit with Raul’s wife Angela who is not doing too well. She is from Mexico originally and is depressed; she misses her family. That is easy to understand as she probably has little social life in Alpine. I asked her if she were walking daily, alluding to the benefits to ones moods. She said that the doctor had not encouraged it. Wow! She really is a long way from Mexico where anti-depressants are seldom used. Most people there are working too hard and too surrounded by friends and family to be depressed for very long.
Then I had Raul sign a pet agreement for the new (unannounced) dog that they have taken in. He owes a $200 deposit plus an additional $20 per month for “Mickey” who is a small poodle-mix who, unfortunately will probably not be walked in the park by Angela, ever.
Finally, I left the small house and returned the hand truck to Greg’s house. My friend, his wife, Kathy, had arrived by then. I was offered a glass of wine; we chatted; and I headed back to Marfa, after calling my friend Louise to confirm dinner plans.
Day Is Done
In Marfa, I met several friends at the Paisano Hotel restaurant, Jetts. The weather is ideal for eating in the Paisano courtyard; and we sat near the fountain, near the six flags (of Texas). Dinner was OK; overpriced, but tasty. The conversation was about the same. While there, I saw a few other friends that I used to work with at the local school. It was wonderful to greet them; they are part of a great “oldies” band, the Moondogs, that performs in a couple of days at a local venue. I promised to attend. Hope I can find someone to accompany me.
Finally, my friends dropped by to view my progress on the house face-lift; we shared a glass of wine before they left for home. I was too tired to shower and just washed my face and feet before passing out. I think my fatigue followed me all night to this morning at 4am when it poked my brain, telling me to get up and get to it. I tried to manipulate it by meditating a bit, concentrating on my breath; but my kitty wanted in; and the neighbor’s dog was having her own issues with sleep. I just gave up and got up.
Life Just Won’t Go Away
Like in Tepoz, sometimes life just won’t get out of the way. However if I were in Tepoz now, I might just walk up the mountain this morning rather than go back to work. I will go over to another small town, at 26 miles, for a yoga class with a friend, then I will head back over to Alpine to complete the clean-up of the cooler at the little house. Then back home and back to work on my own house.
Why all this work? I actually succeeded in completing most of my tax preparation for 2010 this week. It was almost mind-boggling. I had to de-construct and re-construct data in several forms and from several sources. It was like plastic surgery. How do you make a nose out of an inner thigh? I did it.
Land ”lady”
Now I must reflect upon the significance of all this landlady foolhardiness? For, I ask myself, why didn’t I simply marry a rich man who would “take care of me,” or a poor man for that matter? How is it that I am working so hard, actually losing weight, having little fun, and still asking this question? Aren’t I supposed to be semi-retired by now? Answers: I am losing weight because food is not of tremendous importance to me now. I never married a rich man because I never hung out with such and probably wouldn’t have felt that I deserved to live in affluence. I’m not having much fun because Marfa simply doesn’t seem to do that for me. I’m not sure why. It is a great tiny town with really cool people who live separate lives, for the most part.
Today, I will try to simply enjoy the hell out of my day. Yoga will be fun. Tomorrow I’ll put my dancing shoes on and hear my friends perform. I have much joy in my life even with a paint brush in my hand! Writing and reflecting upon the transition from one place I love to another place that I love, noticing the person I become at each moment is priceless.
I hope it has been of interest to you and, perhaps, helpful

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